Textile terms

Quality and testing

A fabric’s resistance to wearing away by rubbing, usually tested on a Martindale machine (ISO 12947) as the number of rubs to a set breakdown. It matters most for workwear, upholstery and trousers.

UZIshqalanishga chidamlilikRUСтойкость к истиранию

See also: PillingIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Quality and testing

The worst average defect rate accepted in sampling inspection (ISO 2859-1, ANSI/ASQ Z1.4). Garment orders typically use AQL 2.5 for major and 4.0 for minor defects, with no critical defects allowed.

UZMaqbul sifat chegarasi (AQL)RUПредел приемлемого качества (AQL)

See also: Inspection level, Critical defect, Major defect, Minor defect, Pre-shipment inspectionIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→Step 12 · Inspection, packing and delivery→

Fibres

A man-made fibre of cellulose acetate, made from wood pulp. It has a silky lustre and drape and is used mainly for linings; it melts under a hot iron.

UZAtsetat tolaRUАцетатное волокно

See also: Viscose

Dyeing and printing

Dyes applied in an acid bath to protein and polyamide fibres such as wool, silk and nylon. They give bright shades but do not dye cotton or polyester.

UZKislotali boʻyoqRUКислотный краситель

See also: Disperse dyeIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Fibres

A synthetic staple fibre of polyacrylonitrile. It is light, warm and wool-like, and is used in knitwear and blankets; it tends to pill.

UZAkrilRUАкрил (полиакрилонитрильное волокно)

See also: Pilling, Wool

Fibres

Advanced Fiber Information System (USTER): a single-fibre tester that counts neps, trash and dust and measures length distribution, short fibre content, maturity and fineness. Mills use it to set and check blowroom, card and comber.

UZAFISRUAFIS

See also: HVI, Neps, Short fibre content, Fibre maturityIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A shuttleless loom that carries the weft across with jets of compressed air. It is the fastest common loom, suited to long runs of simple fabrics, and uses a lot of compressed air.

UZPnevmatik toʻquv dastgohiRUПневматический ткацкий станок

See also: Shuttleless loom, Rapier loom

Yarn and spinning

Spinning in which compressed-air vortices wrap surface fibres around a parallel core, fed straight from sliver (Murata Vortex, Rieter air-jet). It is very fast and gives low-hairiness, low-pilling yarn; it suits viscose and blends best.

UZAerodinamik yigiruvRUАэродинамическое (пневмовихревое) прядение

See also: Open-end spinning, Hairiness, PillingIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Dyeing and printing

A design that covers the whole fabric or garment, printed by the metre before cutting or edge to edge on cut panels. Pattern pieces must be cut with the repeat and direction in mind.

UZToʻliq bosma (all-over)RUСплошная печать (all-over)

See also: Placement print, Rotary screen printing

Fibres

Fibre from the alpaca, a South American camelid. It is warm and soft, contains no lanolin and comes in many natural colours; it is used mainly in knitwear.

UZAlpaka juniRUАльпака

Trade and certificates

The social compliance programme of amfori, a business association of mainly European retailers and brands. Its audits assess 13 performance areas and rate a factory from A (best) to E.

UZamfori BSCIRUamfori BSCI

See also: SMETA, WRAP

Fibres

Hair of the Angora rabbit: very fine, light and fluffy. It sheds easily, so it is used in small proportions in blends; many retailers no longer accept it on animal-welfare grounds.

UZAngoraRUАнгора

See also: Mohair

Finishing

A finish that reduces the small fibre balls that form with wear, by removing loose fibre ends (bio-polishing, singeing) or binding them with polymers. It helps but cannot fully make up for a weak yarn.

UZPillingga qarshi pardozRUПротивопиллинговая отделка

See also: Bio-polishing, Singeing

Finishing

A finish, often based on silver or quaternary ammonium compounds, that limits the growth of bacteria and the odour they cause. Used in sportswear, socks and medical textiles; in the EU, treated articles fall under biocide rules.

UZAntimikrob pardozRUАнтимикробная отделка

See also: Water-repellent finish

Garments and sewing

A decoration, also written appliqué, made by stitching a cut piece of fabric onto a garment, its edge often covered with satin or zigzag stitching or combined with embroidery.

UZApplikatsiyaRUАппликация

See also: Embroidery

Fibres

A family of heat-resistant, very strong synthetic fibres (meta-aramids such as Nomex, para-aramids such as Kevlar). They are used in protective clothing and technical textiles, not in everyday apparel.

UZAramidRUАрамид

Garments and sewing

A carton holding several sizes or colours in a set ratio, for example S:M:L:XL = 1:2:2:1; also called a ratio pack. Stores receive ready-made size runs.

UZAssorti qadoqRUАссортиментная упаковка

See also: Solid pack, Carton

Yarn and spinning

A control on a card or draw frame that measures sliver thickness and adjusts the draft at once. It keeps sliver weight within tight limits, which keeps yarn count and evenness on target.

UZAvtoregulyatorRUАвторегулятор вытяжки

See also: Drawing, Sliver, Count CVStep 06 · Carding and drawing→

Quality and testing

A large class of dyes, a few of which can split into carcinogenic aromatic amines. The EU limits each listed amine to 30 mg/kg in textiles in contact with skin (REACH Annex XVII); testing is to ISO 14362-1.

UZAzoboʻyoqlarRUАзокрасители

See also: REACH, Restricted substances list

Fibres

The standard pressed package of lint, wrapped and strapped for transport, typically about 200–230 kg. Each bale has an identity used to trace its HVI results and to plan bale mixes in the spinning mill.

UZToyRUКипа

See also: HVI, Lint, Blowroom

Fibres

Viscose made from bamboo pulp. Chemically it is ordinary viscose, so in the EU and US it must be labelled as viscose (from bamboo), not as bamboo fibre.

UZBambuk viskozasiRUБамбуковая вискоза

See also: Viscose

Quality and testing

Unwanted horizontal bands repeating across knitted fabric (weft bars in woven). The usual causes are mixed yarn lots or differences in count, twist or fibre micronaire, which dyeing makes visible.

UZYoʻl-yoʻllik (barre)RUПолосатость (барре)

See also: Lot, Count CV, Twist CV, BlowroomIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→Step 04 · Fibre testing and classing→

Garments and sewing

A short, dense zigzag of stitches that reinforces stress points such as pocket corners, fly ends and belt loops. It is sewn on a dedicated bartacking machine.

UZZakrepkaRUЗакрепка

See also: Buttonhole, Lockstitch

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A plain-weave variant in which two or more warps and wefts work together as one, giving a chequered, basket-like surface. Also called hopsack or matt; oxford cloth is a basket variant.

UZRogojka oʻrilishRUРогожка

See also: Plain weave, Oxford

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A very fine, soft plain-weave fabric, originally linen, now mostly cotton or cotton-polyester. Lighter and softer than lawn; used for blouses, lingerie, baby clothes and linings.

UZBatistRUБатист

See also: Lawn, Cambric

Trade and certificates

A global cotton sustainability programme, formerly the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI). Licensed farmers follow its principles; most Better Cotton is traded under mass balance, and a physically traceable option also exists.

UZBetter CottonRUBetter Cotton

See also: Mass balance, Traceability, Chain of custodyIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→In the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Trade and certificates

A partnership of the ILO and IFC that runs factory assessments, advisory services and training in garment-producing countries to improve working conditions and competitiveness.

UZBetter WorkRUBetter Work

See also: SMETA

Trade and certificates

The carrier’s receipt and contract for sea transport, and also a document of title: whoever holds the original can claim the goods. It is usually one of the key documents under a letter of credit.

UZKonosament (B/L)RUКоносамент (B/L)

See also: Letter of credit, Free on Board, CMR consignment noteIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Garments and sewing

The list of every material in a garment with its supplier, colour, size and quantity per piece: fabric, thread, labels, trims and packing. Purchasing and costing are based on it.

UZMateriallar roʻyxatiRUСпецификация материалов

See also: Tech pack, Trims, Fabric consumptionIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Garments and sewing

A strip of fabric, often cut on the bias or from rib, folded over a raw edge and stitched to finish it, as on necklines, armholes and baby wear. A coverstitch machine with a binder sews it in one pass.

UZHoshiya (beyka)RUОкантовка (бейка)

See also: Coverstitch, Neck rib

Finishing

An enzyme treatment of cotton fabric that removes protruding fibre ends, giving a cleaner surface, brighter colour and less pilling. It is usually done in the dyeing machine before or after dyeing.

UZBiopolirovkaRUБиополировка

See also: Enzyme wash, Anti-pilling finish, SingeingIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Finishing

Removing the natural yellowish colour of cotton, usually with hydrogen peroxide, to get a white or a clean base for light shades. A full white for garments also needs an optical brightener.

UZOqartirishRUБеление

See also: Scouring, Optical brighteningIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Yarn and spinning

Yarn spun from two or more fibres mixed together, stated as percentages by weight in descending order, e.g. CO/PES 60/40. Blending combines properties and cost; fibres are mixed in the blowroom or at the draw frame.

UZAralash ip-kalavaRUСмесовая пряжа

See also: Polyester, Melange yarn, Drawing

Garments and sewing

A basic, tested pattern for a garment type, without style details, from which new styles are developed. Working from proven blocks keeps fit consistent across a brand.

UZAsos andoza (blok)RUБазовая конструкция (основа)

See also: Pattern, Fit sample

Yarn and spinning

The first spinning department, where bales are opened, blended and cleaned and the fibre is fed as tufts to the cards. Good blending here evens out bale-to-bale differences that would otherwise show as barré.

UZTitish-tozalash boʻlimiRUРазрыхлительно-очистительный отдел

See also: Carding, Contamination, Barré, Bale

Quality and testing

Eight standard blue wool cloths that fade at known rates, exposed beside the sample in a light fastness test (ISO 105-B02). The sample’s grade, 1 to 8, is the reference cloth that faded as much.

UZKoʻk jun shkalasiRUСиняя шкала

See also: Colour fastness, Grey scaleIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Yarn and spinning

A flanged or plain tube on which roving, yarn or sewing thread is wound. In spinning the word most often means the roving bobbin from the roving frame.

UZGʻaltakRUКатушка

See also: Roving, Cop

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A woven or knitted fabric, also written bouclé, made from yarn with small loops or curls, giving a nubbly, textured surface. Used for jackets, coats and furnishing.

UZBukleRUБукле

See also: Tweed

Finishing

A fabric distortion in which weft yarns or knitted courses curve across the width instead of running straight. It shows in stripes and checks and is corrected on the stenter with a weft straightener.

UZYoysimon qiyshayishRUДугообразный перекос

See also: Skewing, Stentering

Garments and sewing

Grouping cut pieces into numbered bundles by size, colour and ply, with tickets, before they go to sewing. Pieces from one layer stay together, so shades do not mix within a garment.

UZDastalashRUКомплектование кроя в пачки

See also: Cutting, Shading

Quality and testing

The pressure needed to burst a clamped fabric with a diaphragm, in kPa (ISO 13938). It is the main strength test for knitted fabrics, which stretch in all directions and have no warp or weft.

UZYorilishga chidamlilikRUПрочность при продавливании

See also: Tensile strength

Garments and sewing

A slit for a button, edged with dense stitching on a buttonhole machine: straight for shirts and polo plackets, keyhole for jackets and jeans. The slit is cut before or after sewing, depending on the machine.

UZIzmaRUПетля (обмётанная)

See also: Bartack, Trims

Finishing

Passing fabric between heavy heated rollers under pressure to make it smoother, flatter and more lustrous, or to give effects such as glazing or embossing. The effect may lessen after washing.

UZKalandrlashRUКаландрирование

See also: Cambric, CompactionIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A plain-woven, medium-weight cotton, often unbleached. In British use it means plain cotton cloth; in American use, cotton printed with small patterns. Used for linings, bags, toiles and as a printing base.

UZBoʻz, chit (kaliko)RUБязь, ситец (калико)

See also: Plain weave, Muslin

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A fine, closely woven plain-weave cotton or linen, calendered for a smooth, slightly glossy face. Firmer than batiste; used for shirts, handkerchiefs, embroidery bases and linings.

UZKembrikRUКембрик

See also: Batiste, Lawn, Calendering

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A heavy, tightly woven plain or basket-weave fabric, usually cotton or a cotton blend. The heaviest kinds are called duck; used for bags, shoes, tents and workwear.

UZKanvas (brezent)RUПарусина (канвас)

See also: Plain weave, Basket weave, Drill

Yarn and spinning

Yarn spun from carded sliver without combing. It is fuller and more economical but has more neps and hairiness than combed yarn; almost all open-end yarn and much ring yarn for knitting is carded.

UZKarda ip-kalavaRUКардная пряжа

See also: Combed yarn, CardingIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Yarn and spinning

Opening tufts into single fibres between wire-covered surfaces, removing remaining trash, neps and some short fibre, and forming a sliver. Carded yarn is spun from this sliver after drawing; combed yarn is combed first.

UZTarash (karda)RUКардочесание

See also: Sliver, Carded yarn, CombingIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Garments and sewing

A permanent label giving fibre content, care symbols (washing, bleaching, drying, ironing, dry cleaning), country of origin and often size. Its content is set by the law of the market where the garment is sold.

UZParvarish yorligʻiRUЭтикетка по уходу

See also: Main label, Hang tagIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Trade and certificates

The seller pays carriage to a named destination, but risk passes when the goods are handed to the first carrier. It works for any mode of transport; the buyer should insure the goods in transit.

UZCarriage Paid To (tashish haqi toʻlangan)RUПеревозка оплачена до (CPT)

See also: Incoterms, Free Carrier, Delivered at PlaceIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Garments and sewing

The corrugated shipping box, marked with order, style, colour, size breakdown, quantity, weights and carton number. The buyer sets its maximum weight and dimensions.

UZKarton qutiRUГофрокороб

See also: Assortment pack, Solid pack, Polybag

Fibres

The fine undercoat of cashmere goats, with a mean diameter of 19 microns or less. It is soft, warm and light, and is often blended with wool or cotton to reduce cost.

UZKashemirRUКашемир

See also: Wool, Blended yarn

Trade and certificates

A document, usually issued by a chamber of commerce, stating the country where the goods were produced. A preferential certificate, such as form ST-1 within the CIS free trade area, can reduce or remove import duty.

UZKelib chiqish sertifikatiRUСертификат происхождения

See also: HS code, Commercial invoice, TraceabilityIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Trade and certificates

The documented control of certified material as it passes from owner to owner, so that the claim on the final product is backed by records. Models include identity preserved, segregation, mass balance and book and claim.

UZTaʼminot zanjiri nazorati (chain of custody)RUЦепочка поставок (chain of custody)

See also: Traceability, Mass balance, Transaction certificate

Garments and sewing

A two-thread chain stitch in which the loops of the needle thread are caught by a looper thread underneath. It stretches more than lockstitch and sews fast; used for jeans seams and waistbands, but it can unravel if broken.

UZZanjirsimon baxyaRUДвухниточный цепной стежок

See also: Lockstitch, Overlock stitch

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A plain-woven fabric with a coloured warp, traditionally blue, and a white weft, so it looks like light denim. It is lighter and softer than denim; used for shirts and dresses.

UZShambreRUШамбре

See also: Denim, Plain weave, Yarn dyeing

Yarn and spinning

A cylindrical yarn package with flat ends. Soft cheeses on perforated tubes are used for package dyeing; hard cheeses are common for filament and plied yarns.

UZSilindrik bobinaRUЦилиндрическая бобина

See also: Cone, Dyed yarn

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A very light, sheer plain-weave fabric of fine, highly twisted yarns, usually polyester or silk. It is soft and floaty and frays easily; used for blouses, scarves and overlays on dresses.

UZShifonRUШифон

See also: Georgette, Organza, Voile

Knitted fabrics

Weft knitting on a machine whose needles stand in a rotating cylinder (and, for double jersey, a dial), so the fabric comes off as a tube. Most jersey, rib, interlock and fleece for T-shirts and underwear is made this way.

UZDoiraviy trikotaj mashinasida toʻqishRUКругловязальное производство

See also: Cylinder diameter, Tubular fabric, Gauge

Quality and testing

Seldom-occurring yarn faults, too rare to appear in IPI, classified by length and size on the USTER CLASSIMAT grid (e.g. classes A1–D4 for short thick faults). They are used to set clearers and to judge objectionable faults per 100 km.

UZClassimat nuqsonlariRUПороки по Classimat

See also: Yarn clearer, Imperfections

Trade and certificates

The road waybill under the CMR Convention on the international carriage of goods by road. It records sender, carrier, consignee and goods, and is the standard document for truck transport between member countries.

UZCMR yuk xatiRUМеждународная товарно-транспортная накладная (CMR)

See also: Bill of lading, Packing listIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Dyeing and printing

A semi-continuous method for reactive dyes: fabric is padded with dye and alkali, rolled up, wrapped and left for several hours at room temperature to fix, then washed off. It uses little water and energy.

UZSovuq shimdirib-oʻrash usuliRUХолодный плюсовочно-накатный способ

See also: Reactive dye, Continuous dyeing

Knitted fabrics

Collars and cuffs knitted to size on flat machines, with finished edges and often contrast tipping stripes. They are knitted in rib to match the body colour; standard on polo shirts.

UZYoqa va manjet (yassi mashinada toʻqilgan)RUВоротник и манжета (плосковязаные)

See also: Flat knitting, Rib 1×1, Pique

Quality and testing

The resistance of a fabric’s colour to washing, rubbing, light, perspiration, water and other agents, tested to the ISO 105 series. Results are graded 1–5 on grey scales (5 is best), except light fastness, graded 1–8.

UZRang chidamliligiRUУстойчивость окраски

See also: Grey scale, Colour fastness to washing, Colour fastness to rubbing, Colour fastness to lightIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→Step 09 · Dyeing and finishing→

Quality and testing

How well colour resists fading in light, tested under a xenon-arc lamp against blue wool references and graded 1–8 (ISO 105-B02). It matters for outerwear, curtains and pale shades.

UZYorugʻlikka rang chidamliligiRUУстойчивость окраски к свету

See also: Colour fastness

Quality and testing

How well colour withstands acid and alkaline artificial sweat, rated for change and staining (ISO 105-E04). It matters for T-shirts, underwear and sportswear worn against the skin.

UZTerga rang chidamliligiRUУстойчивость окраски к поту

See also: Colour fastness

Quality and testing

How much colour transfers from a fabric to a white rubbing cloth, dry and wet (ISO 105-X12; called crocking in AATCC 8). Wet rubbing on dark shades is often the hardest grade to meet.

UZIshqalanishga rang chidamliligiRUУстойчивость окраски к трению

See also: Colour fastness, Grey scale

Quality and testing

How well colour withstands repeated laundering, rated for colour change of the specimen and staining of an attached multifibre fabric (ISO 105-C06, AATCC 61). Buyers often require grade 3–4 or better.

UZYuvishga rang chidamliligiRUУстойчивость окраски к стирке

See also: Colour fastness, Grey scale

Quality and testing

How well colour withstands soaking in water, rated for change and staining of adjacent fibres (ISO 105-E01). Poor water fastness shows as bleeding onto white areas when a garment is wet.

UZSuvga rang chidamliligiRUУстойчивость окраски к воде

See also: Colour fastness

Fibres

The cotton class for reflectance (Rd, brightness) and yellowness (+b), from the HVI colorimeter or a classer. In US grading 31 means Middling, white; greyer or yellower cotton is worth less and may bleach and dye differently.

UZRang sinfi (Rd, +b)RUЦветовой класс (Rd, +b)

See also: Leaf grade, HVIIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Yarn and spinning

Yarn spun from combed sliver. It is finer, stronger, smoother and cleaner than carded yarn of the same count, and is used for fine knitwear, shirting and fabrics for printing.

UZTaroqlangan ip-kalavaRUГребенная пряжа

See also: Combing, Carded yarn, Compact spinningIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Yarn and spinning

A step after carding that removes short fibres (noil, typically 10–20% of the feed) and remaining neps and lays the fibres parallel. Combed yarn is finer, stronger, smoother and less hairy than carded yarn.

UZTaroqlashRUГребнечесание

See also: Combed yarn, Noil, CardingIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Trade and certificates

The final invoice issued at shipment, stating goods, quantity, price, Incoterm and origin. Customs use it to value the goods for duty, so it must match the packing list and transport documents.

UZTijorat invoysiRUКоммерческий инвойс

See also: Proforma invoice, Packing list, Certificate of origin

Yarn and spinning

Ring spinning with an extra zone that condenses the fibre strand by suction before it is twisted. Compact yarn is less hairy, stronger and pills less than conventional ring yarn of the same count.

UZKompakt yigiruvRUКомпактное прядение

See also: Ring spinning, Hairiness, PillingIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Finishing

Pushing knitted loops closer together lengthwise between heated rollers or a felt blanket, so the fabric shrinks at the mill rather than in home washing. Used for cotton knits in tubular or open-width form.

UZKompaktlashRUКомпактирование

See also: Sanforising, Relaxation dryer, Tubular finishingIn the guide 06 · Finishing→Step 09 · Dyeing and finishing→

Yarn and spinning

A conical yarn package on a paper or plastic tube, the usual form in which spun yarn is shipped, typically about 1.5–2.5 kg. Yarn unwinds easily from a cone at high speed, which suits knitting machines.

UZKonus bobinaRUКоническая бобина (конус)

See also: Cheese, Winding, Packing list

Fibres

Foreign matter in cotton such as polypropylene, plastic film, cloth, hair and feathers. A single fragment can show as a defect after dyeing; clean picking and handling and optical detectors in the blowroom keep it out.

UZBegona aralashmalar (kontaminatsiya)RUПосторонние примеси (контаминация)

See also: Polypropylene, Blowroom

Dyeing and printing

Dyeing in which open-width fabric runs non-stop through padding, fixing and washing units. It is economical for long runs of one shade, mainly woven fabric, but not for small lots.

UZUzluksiz boʻyash usuliRUНепрерывный способ крашения

See also: Exhaust dyeing, Cold pad batch

Yarn and spinning

The small package of yarn built on a tube on the ring-frame spindle. Cops are rewound onto cones, during which faults are removed and the ends spliced.

UZKops (pochatok)RUПочаток

See also: Winding, Ring spinning

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A cut weft-pile fabric with raised lengthwise cords; the more cords per inch, the finer it is. Used for trousers, jackets and shirts; the pile shades by direction, so all pieces are cut one way.

UZVelvet (kord)RUВельвет (вельвет-рубчик)

See also: Pile weave, Velveteen, Velvet

Yarn and spinning

Yarn with a central core, usually elastane or polyester filament, covered by staple fibres such as cotton. It combines the stretch or strength of the core with the surface and hand of cotton; used in stretch denim and sewing thread.

UZOʻzakli ip-kalava (core-spun)RUАрмированная пряжа (core-spun)

See also: Elastane, Filament yarnIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Trade and certificates

A sea rule: the seller pays freight and minimum insurance to the destination port, but risk passes once the goods are on board at the port of shipment. The buyer should check that the insurance cover is enough.

UZCost, Insurance and Freight (narx, sugʻurta va fraxt)RUСтоимость, страхование и фрахт (CIF)

See also: Incoterms, Free on Board, Bill of ladingIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Fibres

The seed hair of the cotton plant (Gossypium), almost pure cellulose. It is soft, absorbent and dyes well, which makes it the main fibre for knitwear, towels and shirting.

UZPaxtaRUХлопок

See also: Upland cotton, Extra-long staple cotton, Seed cotton, Lint

Quality and testing

The coefficient of variation of count between test lengths in a lot, typically 100 m skeins. A high count CV causes variation in fabric weight and shade and can lead to barré.

UZIp nomeri boʻyicha variatsiya koeffitsiyentiRUКоэффициент вариации по номеру

See also: Yarn count, Barré, Lot, Autoleveller

Knitted fabrics

A row of loops running across a knitted fabric, made by one yarn feed in weft knitting. Courses per centimetre, together with wales, describe how dense the fabric is.

UZHalqa qatoriRUПетельный ряд

See also: Wale, LoopIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Garments and sewing

A stretchy stitch with two or three parallel needle threads on top and a looper thread zigzagging underneath. Used for hems, sleeve ends and binding on T-shirts and other knits.

UZRasposhivalka baxyasiRUРаспошивальный стежок

See also: Hem, Binding, Flatlock stitchIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A fabric, also written crêpe, with a crinkled, pebbly surface from highly twisted crepe yarns, a crepe weave or a finish. It drapes well and resists creasing; used for dresses, blouses and suits.

UZKrepRUКреп

See also: Georgette, Chiffon, Seersucker

Quality and testing

A defect that makes a product unsafe or breaks legal requirements, such as a broken needle, sharp parts or small parts a child could swallow. Normally a single critical defect rejects the lot.

UZKritik nuqsonRUКритический дефект

See also: Acceptance quality limit, Major defect, Minor defectIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→Step 12 · Inspection, packing and delivery→

Fibres

A cellulose fibre regenerated from cotton linters by the cuprammonium process. It is fine, smooth and silky and is used for linings and light blouse fabrics.

UZKupro (mis-ammiakli tola)RUКупра (медно-аммиачное волокно)

See also: Linters, Viscose

Dyeing and printing

Heating a print until the whole ink layer is fixed, so it survives washing; plastisol typically at about 150–165 °C. Under-cured prints crack or wash off; over-curing can scorch or yellow the fabric.

UZTermik qotirishRUТермофиксация (полимеризация) печати

See also: Plastisol ink, Pigment printingStep 11 · Sewing and printing→

Garments and sewing

Cutting the spread fabric into garment pieces along the marker, with a straight knife, a band knife or an automatic cutter. Accurate cutting is the basis of correct measurements in the finished garment.

UZBichishRUРаскрой

See also: Spreading, Marker, Bundling

Yarn and spinning

A cotton-polyester blend in which cotton is the larger part, typically 60/40 or 55/45. It feels closer to cotton than a 50/50 blend and shrinks less than 100% cotton.

UZCVC (paxtasi koʻp aralashma)RUCVC (смесь с преобладанием хлопка)

See also: YarnIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Quality and testing

The coefficient of variation of yarn mass over short lengths, the main evenness figure; lower is better. The older U% (mean deviation) is about 0.8 × CVm. Results are compared, count by count, with USTER Statistics.

UZCVm%RUCVm%

See also: Yarn evenness, USTER StatisticsIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→In the guide 08 · Quality and testing→Step 07 · Spinning and winding→

Knitted fabrics

The diameter of the needle cylinder of a circular machine, in inches. With the gauge it sets the needle count and so the fabric width; jersey machines are often 30–34 inches, body-size machines much smaller.

UZSilindr diametriRUДиаметр цилиндра

See also: Circular knitting, Gauge, Tubular body

Fibres

Spraying a harvest aid so plants shed leaves, reducing leaf trash in fibre.

UZDefoliatsiyaRUДефолиация

Step 02 · Cotton picking→

Trade and certificates

The seller delivers the goods, ready for unloading, to a named place in the buyer’s country and bears the risk until then; the buyer unloads and handles import clearance and duties.

UZDelivered at Place (manzilda yetkazish)RUПоставка в месте назначения (DAP)

See also: Incoterms, Delivered Duty Paid, Carriage Paid ToIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Trade and certificates

The seller delivers to a named place in the buyer’s country and pays all costs, including import duties and taxes. This requires the seller to clear customs in the buyer’s country, which is often impractical.

UZDelivered Duty Paid (boji toʻlangan holda yetkazish)RUПоставка с оплатой пошлин (DDP)

See also: Incoterms, Delivered at PlaceIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Dyeing and printing

A single number for the colour difference between a sample and its standard, measured by spectrophotometer. Textiles mostly use the CMC (2:1) formula; many buyers accept ΔE CMC of 1.0 or less.

UZRang farqi ΔERUЦветовое различие ΔE

See also: Shade, Light box, MetamerismIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Yarn and spinning

A direct count: grams per 9,000 metres. It is used mainly for filament yarns and fibre fineness (e.g. 1.5 denier polyester staple); 1 denier = 1.111 dtex.

UZDenyeRUДенье

See also: Dtex, MultifilamentIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A warp-faced cotton twill, usually 3/1, with an indigo-dyed warp and a white weft, so the face is blue and the back pale. Jeans denim is typically 10–14 oz/yd² (about 340–475 g/m²).

UZDenim (jinsi gazlama)RUДеним (джинсовая ткань)

See also: Twill weave, Chambray, Stone wash

Finishing

Removing the size (starch or a synthetic film) put on warp yarns for weaving, usually with enzymes or oxidising agents. Fabric must be desized evenly before it can scour, bleach and dye evenly.

UZOhorni ketkazishRUРасшлихтовка

See also: Warp, ScouringIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Dyeing and printing

Inkjet printing of a design straight from a file onto fabric, using reactive, pigment, acid or disperse inks. No screens are needed, so it suits short runs, photographic designs and many colours.

UZRaqamli bosmaRUЦифровая печать

See also: Direct-to-garment printing, Sublimation printingIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Quality and testing

How much a fabric or garment changes in length and width after washing and drying, in per cent (shrinkage is negative). It is tested to ISO 6330 and ISO 5077 or AATCC 135/150; cotton knits are often specified within ±5%.

UZOʻlcham barqarorligi (kirishish)RUСтабильность размеров (усадка)

See also: Spirality, GSMIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Dyeing and printing

Water-soluble dyes that colour cotton directly from a salt bath without chemical fixing. They are simple and cheap, but wash fastness is low unless an after-treatment is used.

UZToʻgʻri (bevosita) boʻyoqRUПрямой краситель

See also: Reactive dye

Dyeing and printing

Digital inkjet printing straight onto a finished garment, usually cotton, with water-based pigment inks. It suits single pieces and small orders; dark garments need a pretreatment and a white underbase.

UZKiyimga toʻgʻridan-toʻgʻri raqamli bosmaRUПрямая цифровая печать на изделии

See also: Digital printing, Placement print

Dyeing and printing

Printing a chemical that removes the ground colour of dyed fabric, leaving white or a new colour in its place. The print is very soft because no ink layer is added; it works only on dischargeable dyes.

UZVytravka bosmaRUВытравная печать

See also: Screen printing, Water-based inkIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Dyeing and printing

Fine, nearly insoluble dyes for polyester, applied at about 130 °C under pressure or by the thermosol method. Cotton-polyester blends are dyed in two stages: disperse dye for the polyester, reactive for the cotton.

UZDispers boʻyoqRUДисперсный краситель

See also: Reactive dye, Sublimation printingIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

Small geometric patterns woven with a dobby, a device that lifts groups of warp yarns on separate shafts. Used for textured shirtings, towel borders and other small-figured fabrics.

UZDobbi (mayda naqshli oʻrilish)RUДобби (мелкоузорчатое переплетение)

See also: Jacquard weave, Huckaback

Dyeing and printing

Colouring a synthetic or viscose polymer before it is extruded into fibre, also called solution or mass dyeing. The colour is locked inside, so fastness is excellent and no dyeing water is used, but each colour needs a large lot.

UZMassada boʻyashRUКрашение в массе

See also: Fibre dyeingIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Knitted fabrics

Weft-knitted fabric made on two needle beds (cylinder and dial), so face loops show on both sides. It is thicker and more stable than single jersey and does not curl; rib and interlock are the main types.

UZIkki fonturali trikotajRUДвухфонтурный трикотаж

See also: Rib 1×1, Interlock, Single jersey

Knitted fabrics

A pique with tuck stitches on two successive courses, giving deeper, more pronounced cells and a slightly heavier, firmer fabric. Used for polo shirts and sportswear.

UZQoʻsh pikeRUДвойное пике

See also: Pique, Tuck stitch

Yarn and spinning

Winding two or more single yarns side by side onto one package, without twist, as preparation for twisting. Even tension at doubling prevents loops and snarls in the plied yarn.

UZQoʻshib oʻrashRUТрощение

See also: Twisting, Ply yarn

Yarn and spinning

POY that has been drawn and false-twist textured in one process. Polyester and nylon DTY are the standard filament yarns for knitted sportswear, linings and fabrics combined with cotton.

UZChoʻzib teksturalangan ip (DTY)RUТекстурированная нить DTY

See also: Partially oriented yarn, Textured yarn, Fully drawn yarn

Yarn and spinning

Doubling several slivers (often 6–8) and drafting them into one, to even out weight, blend the fibres and straighten them. Draw frames with autolevellers control sliver weight, which governs the final yarn count.

UZChoʻzish (pilta mashinasi)RUВытягивание (ленточная машина)

See also: Sliver, Autoleveller, Blended yarn

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A strong, medium to heavy cotton twill, usually 2/1 or 3/1. It is hard-wearing and takes dye well; used for workwear, uniforms and trousers.

UZDrillRUДрилл (диагональ)

See also: Twill weave, Gabardine, Canvas

Yarn and spinning

Decitex: grams per 10,000 metres, the usual unit in Europe for filament yarns and man-made fibres. 167 dtex is about 150 denier.

UZDteks (detsiteks)RUДтекс (децитекс)

See also: Tex, Denier, Multifilament

Dyeing and printing

The quantity of yarn or fabric dyed together in one batch. Shades may differ slightly between lots, so each lot is labelled and garments are cut lot by lot.

UZBoʻyash partiyasiRUПартия крашения

See also: Shade band, Shading

Yarn and spinning

Yarn coloured before knitting or weaving, usually as packages on perforated tubes, or as fibre before spinning. It is needed for stripes, jacquards and yarn-dyed checks; dye lots must match.

UZBoʻyalgan ip-kalavaRUОкрашенная пряжа

See also: Grey yarn, Melange yarn, Lot

Fibres

Cotton grown in Egypt, best known for its long and extra-long staple Giza varieties. Because the name has been misused, buyers ask for proof of origin.

UZMisr paxtasiRUЕгипетский хлопок

See also: Extra-long staple cotton, Traceability

Fibres

A synthetic fibre of segmented polyurethane that stretches to several times its length and recovers. It is called spandex in North America; Lycra is a brand. A few per cent gives stretch to knits and denim.

UZElastan (spandeks)RUЭластан (спандекс)

See also: Core-spun yarn, PolyamideIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Knitted fabrics

Single jersey with elastane plated in every course or every second course, typically 3–8% of the weight. It recovers well and fits closely; it needs heat setting and is finished open width. Lycra is a brand name for elastane.

UZLaykrali kulirka (streych)RUКулирка с лайкрой (стрейч)

See also: Single jersey, Plaited fabric, Heat setting

Quality and testing

How far a fibre or yarn stretches before it breaks, as a percentage of its length. For yarn it matters as much as strength in knitting and weaving, because it absorbs peaks in tension.

UZUzilishdagi choʻzilishRUУдлинение при разрыве

See also: Tenacity, Fibre strength

Garments and sewing

Decoration stitched into fabric, usually on multi-head computer machines from a digitised file. It is priced by stitch count; dense designs on light knits need a backing to avoid puckering.

UZKashtaRUВышивка

See also: Applique, Placement print

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

The number of warp yarns in one inch of fabric width; Russian-standard specifications count per 10 cm. With picks and yarn counts it defines a woven construction, such as 133×72 for a classic poplin.

UZTanda boʻyicha zichlikRUПлотность по основе

See also: Picks per inch, Warp, Poplin

Finishing

Washing garments or fabric with cellulase enzymes that wear away surface fibres, giving a softer hand and a faded, worn look. On denim it can replace or reduce pumice stones.

UZEnzimli yuvishRUЭнзимная стирка

See also: Bio-polishing, Stone wash, Garment wash

Trade and certificates

The seller makes the goods available at its own premises; the buyer arranges loading, export clearance and transport and bears all risk from there. Because the seller does not clear the goods for export, FCA is often the better choice.

UZEx Works (korxonadan)RUФранко-завод (EXW)

See also: Incoterms, Free CarrierIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Dyeing and printing

Batch dyeing in which the goods circulate in a dye bath until the dye moves from the liquor onto the fibre. Jet, overflow, package and hank dyeing all work this way; it suits small to medium lots.

UZDavriy boʻyash usuliRUПериодический способ крашения

See also: Continuous dyeing, Jet dyeing, Liquor ratio

Fibres

Cotton with a staple of about 35 mm (1 3/8 inch) or longer, mostly Gossypium barbadense. It spins fine, strong, smooth combed yarns and costs considerably more than upland cotton.

UZIngichka tolali paxta (ELS)RUТонковолокнистый хлопок (ELS)

See also: Upland cotton, Pima cotton, Egyptian cotton, Staple lengthIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Garments and sewing

The amount of fabric needed per garment, in kilograms for knits or metres for wovens, including cutting waste. It comes from the marker and drives the garment cost.

UZMato sarfiRUРасход полотна

See also: Marker efficiency, Bill of materials

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

The width of a fabric, quoted as usable (cuttable) width inside the selvedges or as full width. Apparel wovens are often about 140–160 cm; sheeting is woven wider. Wider fabric usually cuts more efficiently.

UZMato eniRUШирина ткани

See also: Selvedge, Marker efficiency, Width controlIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→

Knitted fabrics

The two sides of a fabric. The face is meant to show, such as the smooth V-shaped loops of jersey; the back shows loop arcs or floats. The face is identified and marked before cutting.

UZOʻng va teskari tomonRUЛицевая и изнаночная сторона

See also: Single jersey

Yarn and spinning

Any yarn with a deliberate irregularity of structure or colour, such as slub, bouclé, knop, flammé or mouliné. Fancy effects are specified by sample, because standard evenness values do not apply.

UZFasonli ip-kalavaRUФасонная пряжа

See also: Slub yarn, Mouliné yarn, Yarn evenness

Fibres

The basic unit of a textile: a fine, flexible strand far longer than it is thick, natural (cotton, wool, linen, silk) or man-made (polyester, viscose). Its length, fineness and strength set what yarn can be spun from it.

UZTolaRUВолокно

See also: Yarn, Staple fibreIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→

Dyeing and printing

Dyeing loose fibre before spinning, also called stock dyeing. Fibres of several colours can then be blended into melange yarns; the colour is very even and deeply penetrated.

UZTolani boʻyashRUКрашение волокна

See also: Yarn dyeing, Dope dyeingIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Fibres

How far the fibre’s cellulose wall has thickened, given as a maturity ratio (AFIS) or share of mature fibres. Immature fibres break, form neps and take up less dye, which shows as white specks.

UZTola yetukligiRUЗрелость волокна

See also: Micronaire, Neps, AFISIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→Step 01 · Growing cotton→

Fibres

The force needed to break a bundle of fibres, measured by HVI in grams per tex (g/tex, 1/8-inch gauge). 29–30 g/tex is strong and 31 or more very strong; stronger fibre gives stronger yarn and fewer breaks.

UZTola pishiqligiRUПрочность волокна

See also: Tenacity, HVI, Elongation at breakIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Yarn and spinning

Yarn made of one or more continuous filaments, as man-made fibres are extruded or silk is reeled. It is smooth and strong without spinning.

UZFilament ipRUФиламентная нить

See also: Monofilament, Multifilament, Spun yarnIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→

Fibres

The linear density of a single fibre: millitex (mtex) for cotton, dtex for man-made fibres, diameter in microns for wool. Finer fibres put more fibres in the yarn cross-section, giving finer, stronger, more even yarn.

UZTola ingichkaligiRUТонина волокна

See also: Micronaire, Dtex, Fibre maturity

Garments and sewing

A sample in the base size, ideally in the right fabric, tried on a fit model or form to check fit and measurements. Several rounds may be needed before approval.

UZOʻtirishni tekshirish namunasi (fit)RUОбразец для примерки (фит)

See also: Proto sample, Size set, BlockIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A soft plain or twill fabric in cotton or wool, raised on one or both sides for a fuzzy surface. It is warm; used for shirts, pyjamas and bedding.

UZFlanelRUФланель

See also: Raising, Twill weave

Knitted fabrics

Weft knitting on a machine with straight needle beds, usually two set in a V. It knits shaped panels or whole garments, and collars and cuffs; sweaters and other knitwear are made this way.

UZYassi trikotaj mashinasida toʻqishRUПлосковязальное производство

See also: Collar and cuff, Gauge

Garments and sewing

A seam in which the fabric edges meet or slightly overlap and are covered by a flat stitch such as flatlock, so no ridge forms. It is comfortable next to the skin; used in sportswear and underwear.

UZYassi chokRUПлоский шов

See also: Flatlock stitch

Knitted fabrics

A double knit with rib wales on the face and a flat, jersey-like back. It is heavier and more stable than plain rib and does not curl; used for fitted tops and dresses.

UZTeskarisi silliq ribanaRUРибана с гладкой изнанкой

See also: Rib 1×1, Double jersey

Dyeing and printing

Printing fabric with flat screens lowered onto the cloth one after another as it advances on a belt. Slower than rotary, but it allows large repeats and short runs.

UZYassi trafaret bosmaRUПлоская трафаретная печать

See also: Screen printing, Rotary screen printing

Garments and sewing

A covering stitch with threads on both sides that joins two edges butted or slightly overlapped, leaving a flat seam with no ridge. Used for underwear, base layers and sportswear worn next to the skin.

UZFlatlok baxyasiRUПлоскошовный стежок (флэтлок)

See also: Flat seam, Coverstitch

Knitted fabrics

A loopback knit, usually two- or three-thread, whose back loops are brushed into a soft pile that traps warm air. Used for sweatshirts, hoodies and tracksuits; brushing adds warmth but makes pilling more likely.

UZNachyosli futerRUФутер с начёсом

See also: Three-thread fleece, Raising, Polar fleeceIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Dyeing and printing

A metallic or coloured foil bonded with heat and pressure onto a printed adhesive. It gives a mirror-like shine but stands up to washing less well than ink.

UZFolga bosmaRUПечать фольгой

See also: Heat transfer, Screen printing

Garments and sewing

Folding finished garments to the size and method in the packing instructions, often around a board, with tissue or clips. Consistent folding keeps polybag and carton sizes right.

UZTaxlashRUСкладывание

See also: Pressing, Polybag

Quality and testing

A chemical that can be released by easy-care resin finishes and some binders; it irritates skin and is classed as a carcinogen. It is tested to ISO 14184-1 and limited by law and OEKO-TEX, most strictly for baby articles.

UZFormaldegidRUФормальдегид

See also: OEKO-TEX Standard 100, Restricted substances list

Quality and testing

Scoring of fabric roll defects (ASTM D5430): 1 point up to 3 inches, 2 up to 6, 3 up to 9, 4 over 9 inches or for holes. Rolls commonly pass at up to 40 points per 100 square yards.

UZToʻrt ballik tizimRUЧетырёхбалльная система

See also: Barré

Trade and certificates

The seller clears the goods for export and hands them to the buyer’s carrier at a named place, such as its own premises or a terminal; risk passes then. It suits road, rail and container transport, including from landlocked countries.

UZFree Carrier (tashuvchiga topshirish)RUФранко-перевозчик (FCA)

See also: Incoterms, Ex Works, Free on BoardIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Trade and certificates

A rule for sea and inland waterway transport only: the seller clears export and loads the goods on board the vessel at the named port, where risk passes. For containers handed over at a terminal, the ICC recommends FCA instead.

UZFree on Board (kema bortida)RUФранко-борт (FOB)

See also: Incoterms, Free Carrier, Cost, Insurance and Freight, Bill of ladingIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Garments and sewing

A seam sewn twice, first with wrong sides together, then turned and stitched again, so the raw edges are enclosed. Used on sheer and fine fabrics where an overlocked edge would show.

UZFransuzcha chokRUФранцузский шов

See also: Chiffon, Voile

Knitted fabrics

A weft knit with a jersey face and an extra loop yarn that forms small loops on the back, left unbrushed; also called loopback. Used for light and mid-weight sweatshirts, hoodies and joggers.

UZFuter (halqali, nachyossiz)RUФутер петля (без начёса)

See also: Two-thread fleece, Three-thread fleece, FleeceIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Yarn and spinning

Filament yarn spun and fully drawn in one step, giving a smooth, flat, strong yarn with no texture. It is used in woven fabrics, linings and wherever a lustrous, even surface is wanted.

UZToʻliq choʻzilgan ip (FDY)RUПолностью вытянутая нить (FDY)

See also: Draw-textured yarn, Partially oriented yarn

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A tightly woven, steep twill with a clear diagonal rib on the face, in wool, cotton or polyester. It is firm, smooth and hard-wearing; used for trousers, suits and raincoats.

UZGabardinRUГабардин

See also: Twill weave, Drill

Dyeing and printing

Dyeing finished garments, usually of cotton or other cellulose fibres, in rotary or paddle machines. It gives a soft, lived-in look and short lead times, but shrinkage and shade vary more, so patterns allow for it.

UZTayyor kiyimni boʻyashRUКрашение готовых изделий

See also: Piece dyeing, Garment wash, PatternIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Finishing

Washing sewn garments before packing, plain or with softeners, enzymes or stones, to pre-shrink them and give a soft, lived-in hand. Patterns must allow for the shrinkage.

UZTayyor kiyimni yuvishRUСтирка готовых изделий

See also: Enzyme wash, Stone wash, Garment dyeing, Tumble drying

Yarn and spinning

Passing yarn quickly through a flame to burn off protruding fibres; also called singeing. Gassed yarn is smoother and more lustrous and pills less; it is usual for mercerised and fine combed yarns.

UZIpni kuydirish (gazlash)RUОпаливание пряжи

See also: Mercerised yarn, Hairiness

Knitted fabrics

The number of needles per inch on a knitting machine, written E (E28 = 28 needles per inch). Finer gauges need finer yarn; single jersey for T-shirts is often knitted at E24–E28.

UZMashina klassiRUКласс машины

See also: Latch needle, Cylinder diameterIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→Step 08 · Knitting and weaving→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A sheer crepe fabric woven from alternating S- and Z-twist crepe yarns, giving a grainy, matt surface. It is heavier and less slippery than chiffon; used for dresses, blouses and scarves.

UZJorjetRUЖоржет

See also: Chiffon, Crepe

Fibres

The share of lint obtained from seed cotton by weight, usually about 30–40%. It depends on the variety, the season and how clean the seed cotton is, and largely sets the cost of lint.

UZTola chiqishiRUВыход волокна

See also: Seed cotton, LintStep 03 · Ginning→

Trade and certificates

A standard for textiles made from organic fibres, covering processing, chemicals and social criteria along the whole chain. Its label grades are ‘organic’ (at least 95% organic fibre) and ‘made with organic’ (at least 70%).

UZGlobal organik toʻqimachilik standarti (GOTS)RUГлобальный стандарт органического текстиля (GOTS)

See also: Organic cotton, Organic Content Standard, Transaction certificate, Scope certificateIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Trade and certificates

A Textile Exchange standard for products with at least 20% recycled content (50% for the product label), adding social, environmental and chemical requirements. Textile Exchange is moving GRS into its new Materials Matter Standard.

UZGlobal qayta ishlash standarti (GRS)RUГлобальный стандарт переработки (GRS)

See also: Recycled Claim Standard, Recycled polyester, Recycled cotton

Garments and sewing

Enlarging and reducing a base-size pattern by set increments to make every size in the range. Grade rules come from the size chart; it is usually done in CAD.

UZGradatsiyaRUГрадация лекал

See also: Pattern, Size chart, Size setIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→Step 10 · Pattern making and cutting→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

Fabric as it comes off the loom or knitting machine, before scouring, bleaching, dyeing or finishing; also called greige. Width and weight change in finishing, so specifications give both grey and finished values.

UZXom matoRUСуровая ткань (суровьё)

See also: Scouring, Fabric width, Piece dyeingIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→In the guide 06 · Finishing→

Quality and testing

Standard pairs of grey chips for grading colour fastness by eye: one scale for change in colour (ISO 105-A02), one for staining (ISO 105-A03). Grade 5 means no change; half grades such as 3–4 are used.

UZKulrang shkalaRUСерая шкала

See also: Colour fastnessIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Yarn and spinning

Yarn as it leaves the spinning mill, neither bleached nor dyed; also called raw or ecru yarn. Most cotton yarn is sold grey and coloured later as fabric or garment.

UZXom ip-kalavaRUСуровая пряжа

See also: Dyed yarn

Quality and testing

Grams per square metre, the fabric’s mass per unit area: a 100 cm² disc is cut and weighed (× 100 = g/m²). It is the basic fabric specification; single jersey for T-shirts is typically about 140–200 g/m².

UZSirt zichligi (GSM)RUПоверхностная плотность (GSM)

See also: Dimensional stabilityIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→In the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→Step 08 · Knitting and weaving→

Quality and testing

Fibre ends and loops protruding from the yarn body. USTER H is the total length of protruding fibres (cm) per centimetre of yarn; more hairiness means more pilling, fly and a fuzzier fabric. Compact and air-jet yarns are less hairy.

UZTukdorlikRUВорсистость

See also: Compact spinning, Air-jet spinning, Pilling, GassingIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→In the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Finishing

How a fabric feels to the touch: soft or crisp, smooth or rough, full or thin, cool or warm; also called handle. It is agreed on a reference sample, as it is hard to measure.

UZQoʻlga tegishi (gref)RUГриф (туше)

See also: Softener, Silicone finish, Peaching

Garments and sewing

A removable card tag attached with a loop or plastic fastener, carrying the brand, price, barcode and product information. The attachment point and fastener type are given in the packing instructions.

UZOsma yorliqRUНавесной ярлык

See also: Main label, Care label, Polybag

Dyeing and printing

Dyeing yarn in loose skeins (hanks), so the liquor reaches it freely and the yarn stays bulky and soft. Used for hand-knitting yarn, acrylic, wool and fancy effects; slower and costlier than package dyeing.

UZIpni motokda boʻyashRUКрашение пряжи в мотках

See also: Package dyeing, Yarn dyeing

Finishing

Heating fabric that contains polyester, nylon or elastane at a set width and tension to fix its dimensions. It prevents later shrinkage and curling and sets width and weight; done on a stenter.

UZTermostabillashRUТермостабилизация

See also: Stentering, Elastane jersey

Dyeing and printing

A design printed on a carrier film or paper and applied to the garment with a heat press. It suits names, numbers, small logos and short runs; durability depends on the transfer type and press settings.

UZTermotransferRUТермотрансфер

See also: Sublimation printing, Foil print

Garments and sewing

The finished lower edge of a garment, sleeve or leg, folded and stitched. On knits it is usually coverstitched; the hem depth is given in the tech pack.

UZEtak qaytarmasiRUПодгибка низа

See also: Coverstitch, Tech pack

Fibres

Bast fibre from the stem of industrial hemp (Cannabis sativa). It is strong and durable; for apparel it is usually blended with cotton to soften the hand.

UZKanop tolasiRUКонопляное волокно (пенька)

See also: Linen, Jute, Ramie

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A twill in which the diagonal reverses at regular intervals, forming a zigzag like a fish skeleton. Used for suits, coats, shirts and workwear.

UZArchasimon sarja (yolochka)RUЁлочка

See also: Twill weave, Tweed

Trade and certificates

A suite of self-assessment tools for social and environmental performance, run by Cascale (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition). Factories use the Higg FEM (environment) and FSLM (social and labour) modules, often with third-party verification.

UZHigg IndexRUHigg Index

See also: ISO 14001, ZDHC MRSL

Fibres

The sugary excretion of whitefly and aphids that lands on open bolls. It is the main cause of sticky cotton and can only be reduced in the field, through pest control.

UZAsal shudring (shira ajratmasi)RUПадь (медвяная роса)

See also: Stickiness

Trade and certificates

The Harmonized System code that classifies goods for customs: six digits internationally, longer in national tariffs (10 digits in the EAEU and Uzbekistan). Cotton yarn falls under headings 5205–5207, knitted garments under chapter 61.

UZTIF TN kodi (HS)RUКод ТН ВЭД (HS)

See also: Certificate of origin, Commercial invoice

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A towelling fabric in a small dobby weave whose raised floats make a pebbly surface. It absorbs well, dries quickly and leaves no lint; used for kitchen, glass and guest towels.

UZXakabak (sochiqbop gazlama)RUХакабак (полотенечная ткань)

See also: Dobby, Waffle weave, Terry towelling

Fibres

High Volume Instrument: an automated system that tests a sample from every bale for length, uniformity, strength, elongation, micronaire, colour and trash. Bale-by-bale HVI data underpin the cotton trade and mill bale mixes.

UZHVI tizimiRUСистема HVI

See also: AFIS, Micronaire, Upper half mean length, Colour grade, BaleIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→In the guide 08 · Quality and testing→Step 03 · Ginning→

Quality and testing

The total of thin places, thick places and neps per kilometre of yarn at standard sensitivity (−50%, +50%, +200%). IPI is a key figure in yarn specifications, because imperfections show directly in fabric.

UZIp nuqsonlari (IPI)RUПороки пряжи (IPI)

See also: Thin places, Thick places, Neps, Classimat faultsIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Trade and certificates

The International Chamber of Commerce rules that define who pays for transport, insurance and customs clearance and where risk passes from seller to buyer. Incoterms 2020 has 11 rules; always state rule, place and edition, e.g. ‘FCA Tashkent, Incoterms 2020’.

UZIncotermsRUИнкотермс

See also: Ex Works, Free Carrier, Free on Board, Cost, Insurance and Freight, Carriage Paid To, Delivered at Place, Delivered Duty PaidIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Quality and testing

Sets how many units are sampled from a lot of a given size under ISO 2859-1: general levels I, II and III (II is normal) and special levels S-1 to S-4 for costly or destructive tests.

UZNazorat darajasiRUУровень контроля

See also: Acceptance quality limit, Pre-shipment inspectionIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Garments and sewing

A layer added inside collars, cuffs, plackets and waistbands to give shape and body, usually fused with a heat-activated adhesive. It must suit the shrinkage and washing conditions of the outer fabric.

UZQistirma materialRUПрокладочный материал

See also: Trims, Nonwoven

Knitted fabrics

A double knit made of two interlocked 1×1 ribs, so both sides look like the face of jersey. It is smooth and firm, does not curl and stretches less than rib; used for polo shirts, baby wear and underwear.

UZInterlokRUИнтерлок (двуластик)

See also: Double jersey, Rib 1×1, Ponte di RomaIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Trade and certificates

The international standard for quality management systems. Certification shows that a company runs documented, audited processes for meeting customer requirements; it does not certify the product itself.

UZISO 9001RUISO 9001

See also: ISO 14001, ISO 45001

Trade and certificates

The international standard for environmental management systems: a company identifies its environmental impacts, such as water, energy, effluent and waste, and controls and reduces them under audit.

UZISO 14001RUISO 14001

See also: ISO 9001, ISO 45001, ZDHC MRSL

Trade and certificates

The international standard for occupational health and safety management systems, which replaced OHSAS 18001. It requires a company to identify workplace hazards and reduce injury and ill health, with worker participation.

UZISO 45001RUISO 45001

See also: ISO 9001, ISO 14001

Knitted fabrics

A knit whose pattern is formed during knitting by selecting needles individually, in two or more colours or structures. Single jacquards carry floats on the back; double jacquards have a closed back.

UZJakkard trikotajRUЖаккардовый трикотаж

See also: Miss stitch, Jacquard weave

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

Large, complex woven patterns made on a jacquard loom, which lifts each warp yarn individually. Brocades, damasks, woven labels and patterned towels are jacquard.

UZJakkard oʻrilishRUЖаккардовое переплетение (жаккард)

See also: Dobby, Jacquard knit, Main label

Dyeing and printing

Exhaust dyeing of fabric in rope form, driven around a closed machine by a jet of dye liquor. It is fast and runs at a low liquor ratio; most knitted fabric is dyed this way, polyester at high temperature.

UZJet mashinasida boʻyashRUКрашение на джет-машинах

See also: Overflow dyeing, Exhaust dyeing, Liquor ratio

Fibres

Coarse bast fibre from Corchorus plants, grown mainly in India and Bangladesh. It is used for sacks, carpet backing and twine, not for apparel yarn.

UZJutRUДжут

See also: Hemp

Knitted fabrics

A market name for a rib knit with wider, more raised ribs than plain 1×1 rib, such as 2×1 or 3×3, often with elastane. Used for fitted tops, turtlenecks, dresses and trims.

UZKashkorseRUКашкорсе

See also: Rib 1×1, Rib 2×2

Knitted fabrics

Fabric made of interlocking loops of yarn, on circular or flat knitting machines. It stretches and recovers, so it suits T-shirts, polos, underwear and sportswear.

UZTrikotaj matoRUТрикотажное полотно

See also: Woven fabric, Weft knittingIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→

Knitted fabrics

A weft knit with an extra pile yarn that forms uncut loops on one side. It is soft and absorbent; used for bathrobes, baby wear and home wear, and as the base for velour.

UZMaxra (trikotaj)RUМахровое трикотажное полотно (махра)

See also: Velour, Terry towelling

Dyeing and printing

A small swatch of the order fabric or yarn dyed in the laboratory to match a colour standard. The buyer approves one of usually several submissions before bulk dyeing starts.

UZLab dip (laboratoriya boʻyoq namunasi)RUЛабдип (лабораторный выкрас)

See also: Standard sample, Strike-off, Delta EIn the guide 05 · Colour→In the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Fibres

Laser-guided grading that flattens a field so irrigation water spreads evenly.

UZLazerli tekislashRUЛазерная планировка

Step 01 · Growing cotton→

Knitted fabrics

The needle of most weft-knitting machines: a hook closed by a pivoting latch as the needle moves down, so the old loop slides over it and is cast off. A broken needle leaves a vertical line in the fabric.

UZTilchali ignaRUЯзычковая игла

See also: Gauge, Wale

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A fine, light plain-weave cotton or linen of fine combed yarns, with a crisp finish. Smoother and firmer than voile; used for shirts, blouses, nightwear and handkerchiefs.

UZLaun (batist)RUЛаун (батист)

See also: Batiste, Voile, Cambric

Fibres

The set of bales opened and blended together to feed one spinning mix.

UZToylar qatori (aralashma)RUСортировка (смесь кип)

Step 04 · Fibre testing and classing→

Trade and certificates

The time from order confirmation (or from approval of samples and receipt of advance payment) until the goods are ready to ship, or until they are delivered. Contracts should say which is meant.

UZBuyurtmani bajarish muddatiRUСрок выполнения заказа

See also: Request for quotation, IncotermsIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Fibres

A visual grade (1–7 in US classing) for the amount of leaf particles in a lint sample; 1 is the cleanest. Fine leaf is hard to remove and can stay in the yarn as specks.

UZBarg qoldigʻi sinfiRUКласс по сору (листу)

See also: Trash, Colour grade

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A weave in which pairs of warp yarns twist around each other between picks, locking the weft in place. It makes open yet stable fabrics such as mosquito netting and sacks, and leno selvedges.

UZPerevivka (leno) oʻrilishRUПеревивочное переплетение

See also: Selvedge, Plain weave

Trade and certificates

A bank’s undertaking to pay the seller when documents that comply exactly with the credit are presented, usually under the ICC rules UCP 600. It protects both sides, but any discrepancy in the documents can delay payment.

UZAkkreditiv (L/C)RUАккредитив (L/C)

See also: Proforma invoice, Bill of lading, Quantity toleranceIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Dyeing and printing

A viewing booth with standard light sources for judging colour by eye: D65 (daylight), TL84 (store fluorescent), A (incandescent) and UV. Buyers name a primary source and check the match under a second one.

UZYorugʻlik kabinasi (light box)RUСветовая кабина (лайтбокс)

See also: Metamerism, Delta E

Garments and sewing

Assigning sewing operations to operators so that each workstation has about the same work content in time and the line flows without bottlenecks. It is based on the SMV of each operation.

UZLiniyani muvozanatlashRUБалансировка потока

See also: Standard minute value

Fibres

Fibre from the stem of the flax plant, and the yarn and fabric made from it. It is strong, cool and absorbent but creases easily; in cotton–linen blends it adds a dry hand and slubby texture.

UZZigʻirRUЛён

See also: Hemp, Blended yarn

Fibres

The cotton fibre separated from the seed at the gin, pressed into bales and sold to spinning mills. Note that Russian and Uzbek «линт» / «lint» means linters, not lint.

UZPaxta tolasi (lint)RUХлопковое волокно (lint)

See also: Seed cotton, Linters, Bale

Fibres

Very short fuzz fibres left on the seed after ginning and removed by delinting. They are too short to spin and are used for cellulose products such as cupro, paper and cellulose derivatives.

UZLint (chigit tuki)RUЛинт (подпушек)

See also: Lint, Cupro

Dyeing and printing

The ratio of the weight of goods to the volume of the dye bath; 1:8 means 8 litres per kilogram. A lower ratio saves water, energy and chemicals; modern jets run at about 1:4–1:10.

UZVanna moduliRUМодуль ванны

See also: Jet dyeing, Exhaust dyeing

Garments and sewing

The stitch of a standard sewing machine: a needle thread and a bobbin thread interlock in the middle of the fabric. It looks the same on both sides and is secure but barely stretches; used for wovens, labels and topstitching.

UZMokili baxyaRUЧелночный стежок

See also: Chainstitch, Stitches per inchIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

The machine that weaves fabric by repeating three motions: opening the shed, inserting the weft and beating it into the cloth. Modern mills use shuttleless looms.

UZToʻquv dastgohiRUТкацкий станок

See also: Shuttleless loom, Shed

Knitted fabrics

The basic unit of a knitted fabric: a bent length of yarn drawn through the loop of the previous course. Its size and shape decide how dense, stretchy and stable the fabric is.

UZHalqaRUПетля

See also: Stitch length, Course, Wale

Trade and certificates

A quantity made from the same raw material and settings and given one lot (batch) number. Yarn from different lots can differ slightly in shade after dyeing, so lots should not be mixed in one fabric.

UZPartiya (lot)RUПартия (лот)

See also: Barré, Count CV, Dyed yarn, Packing list

Fibres

A cellulose fibre spun from wood pulp dissolved directly in an organic solvent (NMMO) that is recovered and reused. It is strong wet and dry; TENCEL is the best-known brand.

UZLiotsellRUЛиоцелл

See also: Viscose, ModalIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Garments and sewing

The brand label, woven or printed, usually sewn at the back neck or into the side seam. Its type, size, position and stitching are given in the tech pack; many brands now print neck labels instead.

UZAsosiy yorliq (brend)RUОсновная этикетка (бренд)

See also: Care label, Hang tag, Jacquard weave

Quality and testing

A defect likely to make the customer return the product or to reduce its usability, such as a hole, an open seam, a wrong size or a clear shade difference.

UZJiddiy nuqsonRUЗначительный дефект

See also: Acceptance quality limit, Critical defect, Minor defect

Garments and sewing

The plan that arranges all pattern pieces for an order across the fabric width before cutting, usually made in CAD and printed on paper. A good marker saves fabric and respects grain and nap.

UZMarker (bichish rejasi)RUРаскладка лекал

See also: Marker efficiency, Pattern, SpreadingIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→Step 10 · Pattern making and cutting→

Garments and sewing

The share of the marker area covered by pattern pieces, in percent; the rest is waste. It depends on the garment, the sizes combined and the fabric width, and is typically about 75–90%.

UZMarker samaradorligiRUКоэффициент использования раскладки

See also: Marker, Fabric consumption, Fabric widthIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→Step 10 · Pattern making and cutting→

Trade and certificates

A chain-of-custody model in which certified and conventional material may be mixed, but the volume sold as certified never exceeds the volume bought as certified. The product may not physically contain the certified fibre.

UZMassa balansiRUМассовый баланс

See also: Chain of custody, Better Cotton, TraceabilityIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Yarn and spinning

Yarn spun from a blend of fibres dyed different colours, or dyed and undyed, giving a heathered, mottled effect. Classic grey melange is undyed cotton blended with a share of black-dyed fibre.

UZMelanj ip-kalavaRUМеланжевая пряжа

See also: Dyed yarn, Blended yarn, Mouliné yarnIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Yarn and spinning

Cotton yarn treated under tension in strong caustic soda, which swells the fibres and makes them round. The yarn gains lustre, strength and dye uptake; it is usually gassed first.

UZMerserizatsiyalangan ip-kalavaRUМерсеризованная пряжа

See also: Gassing, Combed yarn

Finishing

Treating cotton yarn or fabric under tension with strong caustic soda. The fibres swell and become rounder, gaining lustre, strength and dye uptake; used for polo shirts and fine shirting.

UZMerserizatsiyaRUМерсеризация

See also: Singeing, BleachingIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Fibres

Wool from Merino sheep, usually finer than 24 microns. Fine merino feels soft against the skin and is used in knitwear, base layers and blends with cotton.

UZMerinos juniRUШерсть мериноса

See also: Wool, Fineness

Knitted fabrics

An open, net-like knit with regular holes, made with tuck stitches in weft knitting or open lapping in warp knitting. It lets air through; used for sportswear panels, linings and bags.

UZToʻr trikotaj (setka)RUСетка (трикотажная)

See also: Tuck stitch, Raschel, Pointelle

Dyeing and printing

The number of threads per centimetre or inch in the mesh of a screen. Lower counts lay down more ink, for bold prints and plastisol on dark garments; higher counts hold fine lines and halftones.

UZTrafaret toʻri zichligiRUНомер сетки трафарета

See also: Screen printing, Plastisol ink

Dyeing and printing

When two colours match under one light but differ under another, because they are made from different dyes. Checking under two or three sources in a light box reveals it.

UZMetameriyaRUМетамерия

See also: Light box, Delta EIn the guide 05 · Colour→Step 09 · Dyeing and finishing→

Fibres

An airflow reading that reflects both the fineness and the maturity of cotton. In US grading the premium range is 3.7–4.2 and the base range 3.5–4.9; low values signal immature fibre and neps, high values coarse fibre.

UZMikroneyrRUМикронейр

See also: Fibre maturity, Fineness, Neps, HVIIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→Step 01 · Growing cotton→

Trade and certificates

The smallest quantity a supplier will produce for one order, colour or style. For yarn it is often set per count and colour, because short runs and machine changeovers raise cost.

UZMinimal buyurtma hajmi (MOQ)RUМинимальный объём заказа (MOQ)

See also: Request for quotation, LotIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Quality and testing

A small departure from the specification that does not affect use and is unlikely to cause a return, such as an untrimmed thread or a slight stitching irregularity.

UZKichik nuqsonRUМалозначительный дефект

See also: Acceptance quality limit, Major defect

Knitted fabrics

A point where a needle does not take the yarn, which then floats behind it. Floats appear on the back of jacquards and some structures, make the fabric narrower and less stretchy, and long ones snag easily.

UZProtyajka (halqasiz oʻtish)RUПротяжка (пропуск петли)

See also: Tuck stitch, Jacquard knit

Fibres

A cellulose fibre made by a modified viscose process, with higher wet strength. It is very soft, keeps its shape after washing better than viscose and is common in underwear and T-shirts blended with cotton.

UZModalRUМодал

See also: Viscose, LyocellIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Fibres

A compacted, covered block of seed cotton stored before ginning.

UZModul (gʻaram)RUМодуль (бунт)

Step 02 · Cotton picking→

Fibres

Hair of the Angora goat: lustrous, smooth and resilient. It gives yarn sheen and loft and is used in knitwear, suiting and fancy yarns.

UZMoxerRUМохер

See also: Angora, Fancy yarn

Quality and testing

Water in a fibre as a percentage of its dry weight; cotton holds roughly 7–8.5% at the standard atmosphere of 20 °C and 65% RH (ISO 139). Contracts can fix an agreed regain so invoiced weight ignores humidity.

UZKonditsion namlikRUВлажность (кондиционная)

See also: Yarn count, Quantity tolerance

Yarn and spinning

A yarn of a single, relatively thick filament, like fishing line. It is used in technical textiles, filters and thread for invisible seams rather than in apparel fabrics.

UZMonoip (monofilament)RUМононить

See also: Multifilament, Filament yarn

Yarn and spinning

A plied yarn twisted from two or more single yarns of different colours, giving a two-tone, speckled effect in fabric.

UZMulina ip-kalavaRUПряжа мулине

See also: Ply yarn, Melange yarn, Twisting

Yarn and spinning

A yarn of many fine filaments, written as total linear density and filament count, e.g. 167 dtex f48 (150D/48F). More, finer filaments give a softer hand.

UZMultifilament ipRUКомплексная нить

See also: Dtex, Denier, Filament yarn

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A loosely woven, light plain-weave cotton. Fine muslin is soft and airy, for summer clothes and baby wraps; coarser grades are used for toiles, linings and filtering.

UZMuslinRUМуслин

See also: Calico, Voile

Fibres

Nodes above cracked boll: unripe boll nodes above the highest opened boll.

UZNACBRUNACB

Step 02 · Cotton picking→

Yarn and spinning

The English cotton count: the number of 840-yard hanks in one pound of yarn. Ne 30 is finer than Ne 20; tex = 590.5 ÷ Ne. A single yarn is written Ne 30/1.

UZNe (inglizcha nomer)RUNe (английский номер)

See also: Yarn count, Nm, Tex, Ply yarn

Garments and sewing

The rib band, usually 1×1 or 2×2 rib, sewn around the neckline of a T-shirt or sweatshirt. It must stretch enough to pass over the head and recover so the neckline stays flat.

UZYoqa ribanasiRUГорловина из рибаны

See also: Rib 1×1, Binding, Taped seam

Garments and sewing

A metal detector that every finished garment passes through, signalling any broken needle or ferrous fragment. Many buyers, especially of babywear, require it together with a written broken-needle policy.

UZIgna detektoriRUИглодетектор

See also: Polybag, CartonStep 12 · Inspection, packing and delivery→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A nonwoven made by punching barbed needles repeatedly through a fibre web so the fibres tangle and lock together. It is thick and dense; used for felts, geotextiles, insulation and car interiors.

UZIgna bilan zichlangan notoʻqima materialRUИглопробивной нетканый материал

See also: Nonwoven, Spunlace

Quality and testing

Small knots of entangled fibre, often formed around immature fibres or seed-coat fragments. AFIS counts them per gram in fibre and sliver; in yarn they are counted per kilometre at +200% (often +280% for open-end yarn).

UZNepslar (tugunchalar)RUНепсы

See also: Fibre maturity, AFIS, ImperfectionsStep 01 · Growing cotton→

Yarn and spinning

The metric count: kilometres of yarn per kilogram (metres per gram). It is used for wool, linen and blends; Nm = 1.693 × Ne and tex = 1000 ÷ Nm.

UZNm (metrik nomer)RUNm (метрический номер)

See also: Yarn count, Ne, Tex

Yarn and spinning

The short fibres and neps removed by the comber. Cotton noil is a valuable by-product, used in open-end yarn, nonwovens and blends.

UZTaroqlash chiqindisiRUГребенной очёс

See also: Combing, Spinning waste, Short fibre contentStep 06 · Carding and drawing→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A fabric made directly from fibres or filaments bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, without spinning, weaving or knitting. Used for medical and hygiene products, interlinings, filters and bags.

UZNotoʻqima materialRUНетканый материал

See also: Spunbond, Needle-punched nonwoven, SpunlaceIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→

Trade and certificates

A label for textiles tested for harmful substances against the OEKO-TEX limit values, at every stage from fibre to finished article. Limits depend on the product class and are strictest for baby articles; certificates are valid for one year.

UZOEKO-TEX Standard 100RUOEKO-TEX Standard 100

See also: Restricted substances list, Formaldehyde, pH valueIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Yarn and spinning

Rotor spinning: sliver is opened into single fibres, which collect in a fast-turning rotor and are twisted into yarn. It is productive and economical for coarse and medium counts; the yarn is even but weaker and harsher than ring yarn.

UZPnevmomexanik yigiruv (OE)RUПневмомеханическое прядение (OE)

See also: Ring spinning, Sliver, Recycled cottonIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Knitted fabrics

Knitted fabric slit along one wale and handled flat at full width. Width and skew are easier to control; it suits elastane fabrics, printing and wide cutting tables.

UZOchiq enli (kesilgan) trikotaj matoRUПолотно в расправку (разрезное)

See also: Tubular fabric, Open-width finishing, SlittingIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→In the guide 06 · Finishing→

Finishing

Finishing knitted fabric slit open and spread flat, on stenters and open-width compactors. It gives better control of width, skew and weight and is needed for elastane fabrics and many prints.

UZOchiq enda pardozlashRUОтделка в расправку

See also: Open-width fabric, Tubular finishing, Stentering

Finishing

Adding fluorescent agents (optical brightening agents) that absorb ultraviolet light and emit blue, so whites look brighter. Brightened whites glow under UV light and can affect colour matching.

UZOptik oqartirishRUОптическое отбеливание

See also: Bleaching, Light box

Trade and certificates

A Textile Exchange chain-of-custody standard that verifies the amount of organic material in a product, from 5% to 100%. Unlike GOTS, it sets no chemical or social requirements for processing.

UZOrganik tarkib standarti (OCS)RUСтандарт органического содержания (OCS)

See also: Organic cotton, Global Organic Textile Standard, Chain of custody

Fibres

Cotton grown without synthetic fertilisers, pesticides or genetically modified seed, on land certified under an organic regulation. Claims on yarn and garments rely on chain-of-custody certification such as OCS or GOTS.

UZOrganik paxtaRUОрганический хлопок

See also: Organic Content Standard, Global Organic Textile Standard, Chain of custodyIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A thin, sheer, stiff plain-weave fabric of filament yarn, traditionally silk, now often polyester or nylon. It holds its shape; used for bridal wear, overlays and interlinings.

UZOrganzaRUОрганза

See also: Chiffon, Taffeta, Interlining

Knitted fabrics

A double knit with raised horizontal ridges, formed by knitting extra courses on one needle bed only. It is thick and textured; used for dresses, skirts and sweaters.

UZOttoman (trikotaj)RUОттоман (трикотаж)

See also: Double jersey, Rib weave

Dyeing and printing

A variant of jet dyeing in which the fabric rope is moved by liquor flowing over a weir and by a reel, more gently than by a jet. It suits delicate and bulky knits but needs more liquor.

UZOverflow mashinasida boʻyashRUКрашение на машинах overflow

See also: Jet dyeing, Liquor ratio

Garments and sewing

A stitch that joins fabric and wraps the cut edge in thread in one pass, trimming as it sews; also called overedge. Three-thread 504 neatens edges; four-thread 514 is the standard stretchy seam for knitwear.

UZOverlok baxyasiRUОверлочный (обмёточный) стежок

See also: Side seam, Coverstitch, Stitches per inchIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→Step 11 · Sewing and printing→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A soft, slightly coarse shirting in a basket-type weave, often with a coloured warp and white weft for a two-tone look. The name is also used for coated polyester or nylon bag and tent fabrics such as 600D oxford.

UZOksfordRUОксфорд

See also: Basket weave, Chambray

Dyeing and printing

Exhaust dyeing of yarn wound on perforated tubes, with liquor pumped through the packages. It is the usual route for yarn-dyed stripes and checks and gives even colour from inside to outside when the winding is uniform.

UZIpni bobinada boʻyashRUКрашение пряжи в бобинах

See also: Yarn dyeing, Hank dyeing

Trade and certificates

A shipping document listing each package with its contents, net and gross weight and dimensions; for yarn, the number of cones and the lot in each carton or pallet. Customs and the buyer’s warehouse check the goods against it.

UZQadoqlash varaqasi (packing list)RUУпаковочный лист

See also: Commercial invoice, Lot, ConeIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Dyeing and printing

Colour references of the Pantone Fashion, Home + Interiors system in the form of dyed cotton swatches; a code such as 19-4052 TCX names the colour. Buyers often specify colours for cotton this way.

UZPantone TCXRUPantone TCX

See also: Standard sample, Lab dip

Yarn and spinning

Filament yarn taken up at high speed with only partial molecular orientation. It is an intermediate product, later drawn and textured into DTY, and is not used directly in fabric.

UZQisman yoʻnaltirilgan ip (POY)RUЧастично ориентированная нить (POY)

See also: Draw-textured yarn, Textured yarn

Garments and sewing

The set of templates, one for each garment piece, used to cut the fabric. Patterns carry seam allowances, notches and grain lines, and allow for fabric shrinkage.

UZAndozaRUЛекала

See also: Block, Grading, Marker

Finishing

Lightly abrading the fabric surface with sand- or emery-coated rollers to raise a very short, velvety nap like peach skin; also called sueding or sanding. Used on shirts, trousers and bed linen.

UZSilliqlash (shaftoli effekti)RUШлифовка («персик»)

See also: Raising, Shearing, Hand feelIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A closely woven plain-weave cotton or blend with a matt, crisp, cool feel, usually from combed yarns at a thread count of 180 or more per square inch. Used mainly for bed linen.

UZPerkalRUПеркаль

See also: Sateen, Poplin

Quality and testing

The acidity or alkalinity of a water extract of the fabric (ISO 3071). Process residues can irritate skin, so buyers typically require pH 4.0–7.5 for articles worn next to the skin.

UZpH qiymatiRUПоказатель pH

See also: OEKO-TEX Standard 100, Restricted substances listIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

The number of weft yarns in one inch of fabric length, also counted per 10 cm. More picks make a denser, heavier fabric; in a construction such as 133×72, the second figure is picks.

UZArqoq boʻyicha zichlikRUПлотность по утку

See also: Ends per inch, Weft

Dyeing and printing

Dyeing fabric after knitting or weaving, in rope form or open width. It is the most common and economical route for solid colours and lets a mill dye grey stock to order.

UZMatoni boʻyashRUКрашение полотна (в куске)

See also: Jet dyeing, Grey fabric, Garment dyeingIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Dyeing and printing

Colouring with insoluble pigments held on the fibre surface by a binder, often on garments. It gives a washed, vintage look that fades further with wear; rub fastness is lower than with dyes.

UZPigment bilan boʻyashRUПигментное крашение

See also: Pigment printing, Garment dyeing

Dyeing and printing

Printing with insoluble pigments in a binder that is fixed by heat, with no washing-off. It is simple and works on any fibre; the print sits on the surface, so it feels slightly stiffer and has lower rub fastness.

UZPigment bosmaRUПигментная печать

See also: Pigment dyeing, Reactive printing, CuringIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Knitted fabrics

Loosely tensioned lengthwise yarn in terry cloth that forms the towel's loops.

UZTukli tandaRUВорсовая основа

Step 08 · Knitting and weaving→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A weave with an extra set of warp or weft yarns that forms loops or cut tufts above the ground. Terry towelling (warp loops), velvet (cut warp pile), corduroy and velveteen (cut weft pile) are pile weaves.

UZTukli oʻrilishRUВорсовое переплетение

See also: Terry towelling, Velvet, Corduroy, Velveteen

Quality and testing

Small balls of tangled fibre forming on a fabric surface through wear and washing. It is rated 1–5 (5 = no pilling) after pilling-box or Martindale tests (ISO 12945); longer fibre, compact yarn and more twist reduce it.

UZPillingRUПиллингуемость

See also: Hairiness, Abrasion resistance, Compact spinningIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Fibres

Extra-long staple cotton (Gossypium barbadense) grown mainly in the south-western United States and Peru. Supima is the trademark for 100% American Pima.

UZPima paxtasiRUХлопок пима

See also: Extra-long staple cotton, Egyptian cotton

Knitted fabrics

A single knit, also written piqué and called Lacoste, whose tuck stitches give a small honeycomb texture on the face. It breathes and keeps its shape; polo shirts typically use 180–240 g/m².

UZPike (lakosta)RUПике (лакоста)

See also: Double pique, Tuck stitch, Collar and cuffIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Dyeing and printing

A print in one defined position on a garment, such as a chest logo or back graphic, usually applied to cut panels or finished garments. The tech pack gives its size and position from a reference point.

UZLokal bosma (placement)RUПозиционная (локальная) печать

See also: All-over print, Tech pack

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

The simplest weave: each weft passes over one warp and under the next, alternating on every pick. The fabric is firm, the same on both sides and frays least; poplin, calico and voile are plain weaves.

UZPolotno oʻrilishRUПолотняное переплетение

See also: Twill weave, Satin weave, Basket weaveIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Knitted fabrics

A knit in which two yarns are fed into each loop so that one shows on the face and the other on the back. It combines, for example, cotton outside with polyester or elastane inside.

UZPlatirlangan trikotajRUПлатированный трикотаж

See also: Elastane jersey, Single jersey

Dyeing and printing

A PVC-based screen-printing ink that stays wet on the screen and cures with heat into a strong, elastic film. It is opaque and bright on dark garments; the print feels heavier than water-based ink.

UZPlastizol boʻyoqRUПластизольная краска

See also: Curing, Water-based ink, Screen printingIn the guide 05 · Colour→Step 11 · Sewing and printing→

Yarn and spinning

Two or more single yarns twisted together; stronger, more even and less hairy than a single yarn of the same resultant count. Notation varies: Ne 2/40 and Ne 40/2 both mean two Ne 40 singles, about Ne 20 overall.

UZEshilgan ipRUКручёная пряжа

See also: Single yarn, Twisting, Siro spinning, Mouliné yarnIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Garments and sewing

A defined measurement on a garment, with a code and a method, for example chest width 2 cm below the armhole. Clear points of measure stop factory and buyer from measuring differently.

UZOʻlchov nuqtasiRUТочка измерения

See also: Spec sheet, Size chartIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Knitted fabrics

A knit with small eyelet holes set in a pattern, made by moving loops to neighbouring needles. It is light and decorative; used for women's tops, nightwear and baby wear.

UZPuantel (ajur trikotaj)RUПуантель (ажурный трикотаж)

See also: Jacquard knit, Mesh

Knitted fabrics

A knitted fabric, usually polyester, brushed and sheared on one or both sides into a dense, even pile. It is light, warm and dries quickly; used for jackets, linings and blankets.

UZFlisRUФлис

See also: Fleece, Raising, Shearing

Fibres

A synthetic fibre known as nylon (mainly PA 6 and PA 66). It is very strong, elastic and abrasion-resistant, and is used in hosiery, sportswear and blends with elastane.

UZPoliamid (neylon)RUПолиамид (нейлон)

See also: Elastane, Draw-textured yarn

Garments and sewing

The individual plastic bag a garment is packed in, usually printed with a suffocation warning and sometimes carrying a size sticker or barcode. Many buyers now ask for recycled or less plastic.

UZPolietilen paketRUИндивидуальный пакет

See also: Folding, Carton

Fibres

A synthetic fibre, mostly polyethylene terephthalate (PET), made as filament or staple. It is strong, quick-drying and keeps its shape; blended with cotton it reduces shrinkage and creasing.

UZPoliesterRUПолиэстер (полиэфирное волокно)

See also: Recycled polyester, Staple fibre, Filament yarn, Blended yarnIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Fibres

The lightest synthetic fibre: it floats on water and absorbs almost no moisture. It is used in technical textiles, bags and thermal underwear; fragments of PP bags are a common contaminant in cotton.

UZPolipropilenRUПолипропилен

See also: Contamination

Knitted fabrics

A firm double knit based on interlock with an extra pair of single-bed courses, also called ponte or punto di Roma. It is stable, barely curls and holds its shape; used for trousers, dresses and jackets.

UZPonte di RomaRUПонте-ди-рома (пунто ди рома)

See also: Interlock, Double jersey

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A plain-woven fabric with many more warp than weft yarns, giving a fine crosswise rib and a smooth, crisp surface. Used for shirts, blouses and dresses; 133×72 is a classic cotton construction.

UZPoplinRUПоплин

See also: Plain weave, Ends per inch, Percale

Garments and sewing

A sample made in the actual bulk fabric, trims, prints and labels, by the methods of the production line. Once the buyer approves it, it becomes the reference for the whole order.

UZIshlab chiqarish oldi namunasiRUПредпроизводственный образец

See also: Top of production sample, Size setIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Quality and testing

A final random inspection of finished, packed goods, usually once at least 80% of the order is packed, using AQL sampling. It checks quantity, workmanship, measurements, labelling and packing before the goods are released.

UZJoʻnatishdan oldingi nazoratRUПредотгрузочная инспекция

See also: Acceptance quality limit, Inspection level, Packing list

Garments and sewing

Shaping and smoothing garments with steam and heat on irons or presses. On knits, light steaming is often enough; too much pressure leaves shine or flattens texture.

UZDazmollashRUВлажно-тепловая обработка (ВТО)

See also: Folding

Trade and certificates

A preliminary invoice stating goods, prices, quantities, terms and bank details before shipment. Buyers use it to make an advance payment, open a letter of credit or obtain import permits.

UZProforma-invoysRUПроформа-инвойс

See also: Commercial invoice, Letter of creditIn the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Garments and sewing

The first sample of a new style, made from the tech pack to check design, construction and approximate fit. Substitute fabric may be used; the buyer comments and the pattern is corrected.

UZProto namunaRUПрото-образец

See also: Fit sample, Tech packIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Dyeing and printing

A screen print with a foaming additive that expands when cured, giving a raised, soft, three-dimensional effect. Used for logos and lettering.

UZHajmli bosma (puff)RUОбъёмная печать (пуфф)

See also: Screen printing, Curing

Trade and certificates

The agreed margin by which a delivery may differ from the order, e.g. ±3% or ±5%, as yarn and fabric cannot be made to the exact kilogram or metre. Under UCP 600, ‘about’ in a letter of credit allows ±10%.

UZMiqdor boʻyicha ruxsat etilgan chetlanishRUДопуск по количеству

See also: Letter of credit, Lot

Finishing

Lifting fibres from the fabric surface with wire-covered rollers to form a soft, warm pile; also called brushing. It turns loopback into fleece and cotton cloth into flannel, but weakens the fabric and can increase pilling.

UZTuklantirish (nachyos)RUВорсование (начёс)

See also: Fleece, Flannel, ShearingIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Fibres

Bast fibre from the stem of the ramie plant (Boehmeria nivea): white, lustrous and very strong. It is stiff and stretches little, so it is mostly blended with cotton or linen.

UZRamiRUРами

See also: Linen, Hemp

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A shuttleless loom in which rigid or flexible rapiers carry the weft into the shed and pass it over in the middle. Slower than air-jet, it handles many yarns and colours, so it suits fancy fabrics and short runs.

UZRapirali toʻquv dastgohiRUРапирный ткацкий станок

See also: Shuttleless loom, Air-jet loom, Dobby

Knitted fabrics

A warp knit from raschel machines, which handle coarser yarns and more complex patterns than tricot machines. Lace, nets, power mesh, curtains and blankets are typical raschel fabrics.

UZRashel trikotajRUРашель

See also: Warp knitting, Tricot, Spacer fabric

Trade and certificates

The EU chemicals regulation, (EC) No 1907/2006. For textiles it restricts substances such as the listed azo amines, and requires suppliers to declare Candidate List substances (SVHC) above 0.1% by weight in an article.

UZREACHRUREACH

See also: Azo dyes, Restricted substances list

Dyeing and printing

The main dye class for cotton and viscose: it forms a covalent bond with cellulose, giving bright shades and good wash fastness. It needs salt and alkali, and unfixed dye must be washed off thoroughly.

UZReaktiv boʻyoqRUАктивный (реактивный) краситель

See also: Reactive printing, Exhaust dyeing, Cold pad batchIn the guide 05 · Colour→Step 09 · Dyeing and finishing→

Dyeing and printing

Printing cotton or viscose with reactive dyes, fixed by steaming and then washed off. The dye bonds with the fibre, so the print is soft and colourfast, but it takes more process steps.

UZReaktiv bosmaRUПечать активными красителями

See also: Reactive dye, Pigment printing

Trade and certificates

A Textile Exchange chain-of-custody standard that verifies recycled content from 5% upwards, with no social or chemical criteria. Like GRS, it is being folded into the Materials Matter Standard.

UZQayta ishlangan tarkib daʼvosi standarti (RCS)RUСтандарт заявления о переработанном содержании (RCS)

See also: Global Recycled Standard, Recycled polyester, Chain of custody

Fibres

Cotton fibre recovered by tearing cutting waste (pre-consumer) or used textiles (post-consumer) back to fibre. The fibres are shorter, so they are usually blended with virgin cotton or polyester and spun open-end.

UZQayta ishlangan paxtaRUПереработанный хлопок

See also: Open-end spinning, Global Recycled Standard, Recycled Claim StandardIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Fibres

Polyester made from recovered PET, mostly drinks bottles, by mechanical or chemical recycling. Its properties are close to virgin polyester; recycled-content claims are verified under GRS or RCS.

UZQayta ishlangan poliester (rPET)RUПереработанный полиэстер (rPET)

See also: Polyester, Global Recycled Standard, Recycled Claim Standard

Dyeing and printing

The exact alignment of each colour of a print with the others. Poor registration shows as gaps, overlaps or shifted outlines; it is checked on the strike-off and during the run.

UZRanglarni moslash (registratsiya)RUСовмещение (приводка)

See also: Strike-off, Screen printing

Finishing

A dryer that carries knitted fabric on a conveyor with little or no tension while hot air makes it bounce and relax. The fabric shrinks freely before compaction, which lowers residual shrinkage.

UZRelaksatsion quritgichRUРелаксационная сушильная машина

See also: Compaction, Tumble drying

Trade and certificates

A buyer’s request for price and terms. For yarn it should state fibre and blend, count, spinning system, quantity, packing, Incoterm and destination, delivery date, and any certificates or test limits required.

UZNarx soʻrovi (RFQ)RUЗапрос коммерческого предложения (RFQ)

See also: Minimum order quantity, Lead time, Incoterms, Proforma invoice

Trade and certificates

A buyer’s list of chemicals restricted in the finished product, with limit values and test methods. Many brands base theirs on the AFIRM RSL; suppliers show compliance with test reports.

UZCheklangan moddalar roʻyxati (RSL)RUПеречень ограниченных веществ (RSL)

See also: ZDHC MRSL, REACH, Azo dyes, Formaldehyde

Knitted fabrics

A double knit in which single face and back wales alternate, giving fine vertical ribs on both sides. It stretches widely across and recovers; used for neckbands, cuffs, fitted tops and underwear.

UZRibana 1×1RUРибана 1×1 (ластик)

See also: Rib 2×2, Kashkorse, Neck ribIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Knitted fabrics

A rib in which two face and two back wales alternate, so the ribs are wider and more pronounced than in 1×1. It is very elastic across; used for cuffs, waistbands, hems and sweaters.

UZRibana 2×2RUРибана 2×2 (резинка 2+2)

See also: Rib 1×1, Kashkorse

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A plain-weave variant with ribs across or along the fabric, made by grouping yarns or using much thicker yarn in one direction. Poplin has a fine rib; repp and grosgrain have heavier ones.

UZReps oʻrilishRUРепсовое переплетение (репс)

See also: Plain weave, Poplin

Yarn and spinning

Spinning in which roving is drafted and twisted by a traveller running on a ring around the spindle. It gives the strongest, softest staple yarn over the widest count range, at a higher cost per kilogram than open-end.

UZHalqali yigiruvRUКольцевое прядение

See also: Compact spinning, Roving, Cop, Open-end spinningIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A woven fabric with thicker reinforcing yarns at regular intervals in both directions, forming a small grid. The grid stops tears from spreading; used for outdoor wear, workwear, bags and parachutes.

UZRipstopRUРипстоп

See also: Plain weave, Water-repellent finish

Quality and testing

Reißkilometer: the length at which a yarn would break under its own weight, in kilometres. It is numerically close to tenacity in cN/tex (RKM ≈ 1.02 × cN/tex), and many mills quote yarn strength this way.

UZRKM (uzilish uzunligi)RURKM (разрывная длина)

See also: Tenacity

Dyeing and printing

Continuous fabric printing with seamless cylindrical screens, one per colour, with ink fed inside and pressed through by a squeegee. It is fast and suited to long runs of printed fabric by the metre.

UZRotatsion trafaret bosmaRUРотационная трафаретная печать

See also: Screen printing, Flatbed screen printing, All-over print

Yarn and spinning

A thin strand drafted from sliver and given a little twist, wound on bobbins at the roving frame to feed the ring frame. Open-end and air-jet spinning skip roving and spin straight from sliver.

UZPilikRUРовница

See also: Ring spinning, Sliver, BobbinIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Yarn and spinning

The direction of twist: in Z twist the fibres slope like the middle stroke of a Z, in S twist like an S. Singles are usually Z and plied yarns S. Twist direction affects spirality in single jersey.

UZS va Z buramRUКрутка S и Z

See also: Twist, Spirality, Ply yarn

Garments and sewing

Samples in the right fabric and colours that the buyer sales team shows to retail customers to take orders, often before bulk production. The buyer sets the quantity.

UZSavdo namunasi (salesman)RUОбразец для продаж (селлинг)

See also: Fit sample, Pre-production sample

Finishing

Compressive shrinking of woven cotton against a thick rubber belt, so it shrinks before cutting. It leaves little residual shrinkage; Sanforized is a registered trademark with its own standard.

UZSanforizatsiyaRUСанфоризация

See also: Compaction, DenimIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A satin-type weave with weft floats on the face, usually in cotton. It has a soft sheen and a smooth hand; widely used for bed linen.

UZSatinRUСатин

See also: Satin weave, Percale

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A weave with long warp floats over four or more wefts and widely spaced interlacings, so the face is smooth and lustrous. It drapes well but snags more easily.

UZAtlas oʻrilishRUАтласное переплетение

See also: Sateen, Twill weaveIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Trade and certificates

The certificate that states which sites, processes and products of a company are certified to a standard such as GOTS or GRS. Buyers check that it is valid on the shipment date and covers the product ordered.

UZSertifikatlash sohasi sertifikati (SC)RUСертификат области сертификации (SC)

See also: Transaction certificate

Finishing

Treating cotton in a hot alkaline bath to remove natural waxes, pectins and dirt so the fabric absorbs water evenly. It comes before bleaching and dyeing and is often combined with them.

UZIshqoriy qaynatishRUОтварка

See also: Bleaching, DesizingIn the guide 06 · Finishing→Step 09 · Dyeing and finishing→

Dyeing and printing

Printing by pressing ink through a fine mesh stencil, one screen per colour. It gives strong, durable prints and is economical for medium to large runs; used for garment logos and fabric designs.

UZTrafaret bosmaRUТрафаретная печать (шелкография)

See also: Rotary screen printing, Flatbed screen printing, Mesh count, Plastisol inkIn the guide 05 · Colour→In the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Garments and sewing

The fabric between the cut edge and the stitching line, added to every pattern piece. It must suit the stitch and fabric: overlocked knit seams need little, seams pressed open need more.

UZChok haqiRUПрипуск на шов

See also: Pattern, Overlock stitch

Trade and certificates

An online platform where suppliers share ethical-trade data, self-assessment questionnaires and audit reports such as SMETA with their customers, so that one audit can serve several buyers.

UZSedexRUSedex

See also: SMETA

Fibres

Cotton as picked: the fibre still attached to the seed, with some leaf and other trash. The gin separates it into lint, seed and waste; about a third of its weight becomes lint.

UZPaxta xomashyosiRUХлопок-сырец

See also: Lint, Gin turnout, LintersStep 02 · Cotton picking→

Fibres

Piece of seed skin, often with fibres attached, carried into the lint.

UZChigit poʻchogʻi boʻlagiRUКожица с волокном

Step 03 · Ginning→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A light cotton fabric with puckered stripes, made by weaving some warp yarns at a slacker tension than others. It stands away from the skin and needs little ironing; used for summer shirts and suits.

UZSirsakerRUСирсакер (жатка)

See also: Plain weave, Crepe

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

The firm edge along each side of a woven fabric that stops it fraying. Shuttle looms give a closed edge, shuttleless looms a fringed or tucked-in one; it is usually trimmed off in cutting.

UZJiyak (gazlama chekkasi)RUКромка

See also: Shuttleless loom, Fabric widthIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Dyeing and printing

A particular colour as dyed, described by its hue, depth and brightness, such as a light, medium or dark shade. It is compared with an approved standard by eye and by spectrophotometer.

UZRang tusiRUОттенок (тон)

See also: Standard sample, Delta E, Lab dip

Dyeing and printing

A set of cuttings from the dye lots of one order, arranged by shade and approved by the buyer. It shows the accepted range and helps keep lots apart in cutting.

UZShade band (partiyalar tus kartasi)RUШейд-бэнд (карта оттенков партий)

See also: Dye lot, ShadingIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Dyeing and printing

An unwanted shade difference within a lot, a roll or across the width, such as side-to-centre shading or end-to-end tailing. Panels cut from different shades look mismatched when sewn together.

UZTus notekisligiRUРазнооттеночность

See also: Shade band, Dye lot, Bundling

Finishing

Cutting raised or pile fibres to an even height with rotating spiral blades. It gives velour, fleece and pile fabrics a level surface and removes loose fibres.

UZTukni qirqishRUСтрижка ворса

See also: Raising, Velour, Polar fleeceIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

The opening formed when the loom lifts some warp yarns and lowers others so the weft can pass between them. Which yarns are lifted for each pick decides the weave.

UZZevRUЗев

See also: Warp, Weft, Dobby

Garments and sewing

Garments taken from the packed order as shipped, sent to the buyer or kept as a record of what was delivered.

UZJoʻnatma namunasiRUОтгрузочный образец

See also: Top of production sample, Carton

Fibres

The share of fibres shorter than 12.7 mm (0.5 inch), by number or weight (AFIS, HVI). Short fibres do not hold in the yarn, so they raise hairiness, unevenness, waste and ends down.

UZKalta tolalar miqdori (SFC)RUСодержание коротких волокон (SFC)

See also: Uniformity index, Noil, Hairiness, AFIS

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

Any loom that inserts the weft without a shuttle, by air, water, rapier or projectile. These looms run faster than shuttle looms and give a fringed or tucked-in selvedge.

UZMokisiz toʻquv dastgohiRUБесчелночный ткацкий станок

See also: Air-jet loom, Rapier loom, Water-jet loom, Selvedge

Garments and sewing

The seam joining front and back along the side of a garment, usually overlocked on knits. Side seams that twist after washing point to fabric skew or spirality.

UZYon chokRUБоковой шов

See also: Skewing, Overlock stitch, Tubular body

Finishing

A softening finish with silicone emulsions that gives a smooth, slippery, very soft hand and easier sewing. Too much can make fabric water-repellent, leave spots or stop prints from bonding well.

UZSilikonli pardozRUСиликоновая отделка

See also: Softener, Hand feel

Fibres

A protein filament spun by silkworms, chiefly Bombyx mori. It is fine, strong and lustrous; waste silk is cut to staple and spun, including in blends with cotton.

UZIpakRUШёлк

See also: Filament yarn, Staple fibre

Finishing

Burning off protruding fibres by passing fabric or yarn quickly over gas flames or hot plates. It gives a clean, smooth surface, sharper prints and less pilling.

UZOpalashRUОпаливание

See also: Desizing, Bio-polishingIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Knitted fabrics

The basic weft knit from one needle bed: smooth V-shaped loops on the face, loop arcs on the back. Its edges curl and it can skew; T-shirts typically use 140–200 g/m².

UZKulirka (bir fonturali silliq trikotaj)RUКулирная гладь (кулирка)

See also: Elastane jersey, Slub jersey, Double jerseyIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→

Yarn and spinning

Yarn of one spun strand, twisted in one direction, as it comes from the spinning machine. Most knitting yarn is used as single yarn, written Ne 30/1.

UZYakka ipRUОдиночная пряжа

See also: Ply yarn, Ne

Yarn and spinning

Ring spinning from two rovings, kept apart in the drafting zone and twisted together, giving a two-strand yarn in one step. Siro yarn is stronger and less hairy than single ring yarn and replaces two-ply yarn in many uses.

UZSiro yigiruvRUСиро-прядение

See also: Ply yarn, Ring spinning

Garments and sewing

A table of body or garment measurements for each size in a range, such as S–XXL. Each brand keeps its own chart, so the same size label can differ between buyers.

UZOʻlchamlar jadvaliRUРазмерная сетка

See also: Spec sheet, GradingIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Garments and sewing

One sample in each size, or in selected sizes, made to check that grading gives correct measurements across the range before bulk cutting.

UZOʻlchamlar toʻplami namunasi (size set)RUРазмерный ряд образцов (сайз-сет)

See also: Grading, Fit sampleIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Finishing

A fabric distortion in which weft yarns or courses run at an angle to the selvedge instead of square to it. In knits from multi-feeder machines it adds to spirality, so side seams twist after washing.

UZQiyshayishRUПерекос

See also: Bowing, Stentering, Side seam

Finishing

Cutting tubular knitted fabric open along a marked line, often left by a needle taken out, so it can be finished or cut at open width. A straight cut along one wale prevents extra skew.

UZMatoni kesib ochishRUРазрезка полотна

See also: Tubular fabric, Open-width fabric

Yarn and spinning

A thick, untwisted rope of fibres weighing a few grams per metre, delivered by the card, draw frame or comber and coiled into cans. It feeds the next process or, in open-end and air-jet spinning, the spinning machine itself.

UZPiltaRUЛента

See also: Carding, Drawing, RovingIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→Step 06 · Carding and drawing→

Knitted fabrics

Single jersey knitted from slub yarn, which has thick and thin places by design. The surface looks irregular and rustic; the slubs are a feature, not a fault.

UZSlab kulirkaRUКулирка слаб

See also: Single jersey

Yarn and spinning

Yarn with deliberate thick sections (slubs) at set or random intervals, made by varying the draft during spinning. It gives fabric an irregular, handcrafted look; slub length, thickness and spacing are part of the specification.

UZSlab ip-kalavaRUПряжа слаб

See also: Fancy yarnIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Trade and certificates

Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit: a social audit method covering labour standards and health and safety, adding environment and business ethics in the four-pillar version. It produces an audit report shared on Sedex, not a certificate.

UZSMETARUSMETA

See also: Sedex, amfori BSCI, WRAPIn the guide 08 · Quality and testing→Step 12 · Inspection, packing and delivery→

Finishing

A chemical applied in finishing, usually cationic or silicone-based, that makes fabric softer and smoother. The type and amount affect absorbency, colour and printability, so buyers may specify it.

UZYumshatgichRUУмягчитель

See also: Silicone finish, Hand feel

Garments and sewing

A carton holding one size in one colour only. It is simple to pack and count and is common for warehouse and online orders.

UZBir xil qadoq (solid)RUМоноупаковка

See also: Assortment pack, Carton

Knitted fabrics

A three-dimensional knit of two separate faces joined by spacer yarns, usually monofilament, that hold them apart. It is springy and breathable; used in shoes, bra cups, seat covers and mattresses.

UZSpeyser (3D trikotaj)RUСпейсер (3D-полотно)

See also: Raschel, Double jersey

Garments and sewing

The measurement page of a tech pack: each point of measure for each size with its tolerance, for example chest width ±1 cm. Samples and bulk are measured against it.

UZOʻlchov jadvali (spek)RUТабель мер

See also: Point of measure, Size chart, Tech pack

Yarn and spinning

Fibre lost in spinning: blowroom and card droppings, comber noil, sliver and roving ends, and hard waste. Total waste sets much of the yarn cost; clean soft waste is recycled into open-end yarn.

UZYigiruv chiqindilariRUУгары (отходы прядения)

See also: Noil, Open-end spinning

Quality and testing

The twisting of a knitted fabric or garment after washing, so that side seams move to the front or back; in woven fabric it is called skew. It comes mainly from residual yarn twist (ISO 16322, AATCC 179).

UZSpirallik (qiyshayish)RUСпиральность (перекос)

See also: S and Z twist, Twist, Dimensional stabilityIn the guide 06 · Finishing→Step 07 · Spinning and winding→

Yarn and spinning

Joining two yarn ends without a knot by untwisting and re-entangling the fibres with compressed air. A good splice is close to the yarn’s own diameter and strength, so it does not show in fabric or break on knitting machines.

UZSplays (pnevmatik ulash)RUСплайсирование (пневмосращивание)

See also: Winding, Yarn clearer

Garments and sewing

Laying fabric layer upon layer on the cutting table, aligned at one edge and without tension. Knits must be relaxed before spreading, or the cut pieces shrink.

UZYoyishRUНастилание

See also: Cutting, MarkerIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→Step 10 · Pattern making and cutting→

Yarn and spinning

Yarn made by twisting staple fibres together, also called staple yarn, as opposed to continuous filament. All cotton yarn is spun yarn; man-made fibres are cut to staple to be spun alone or in blends.

UZShtapel ip-kalavaRUПряжа из штапельных волокон

See also: Staple fibre, Filament yarn

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A nonwoven made by extruding continuous polymer filaments, usually polypropylene, laying them into a web and bonding them with heat. It is light and strong; used for bags, crop covers, hygiene products and protective clothing.

UZSpanbondRUСпанбонд

See also: Nonwoven, Spunlace

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A nonwoven whose fibres are entangled by fine, high-pressure water jets; also called hydroentangled. It is soft, drapes like cloth and absorbs well; used for wet wipes, cosmetic pads and medical gowns.

UZSpanleysRUСпанлейс

See also: Nonwoven, Spunbond

Garments and sewing

The time in minutes a trained operator needs for an operation or a whole garment at a standard pace, including allowances; also called standard allowed minutes. It is used for costing, line planning and efficiency.

UZMeʼyoriy vaqtRUНорма времени

See also: Line balancingIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→Step 11 · Sewing and printing→

Dyeing and printing

The physical colour reference, such as the buyer swatch, a Pantone card or an approved lab dip, against which all dyeing is judged. It is stored in the dark, as light and handling change it.

UZRang etaloniRUЭталон цвета

See also: Lab dip, Pantone TCX, Shade

Fibres

Fibre in short lengths, as cotton grows or as man-made filament is cut (commonly 32–38 mm for blending with cotton). Staple fibres are spun into yarn; continuous filament is used without spinning.

UZShtapel tolaRUШтапельное волокно

See also: Spun yarn, Filament yarn, Staple lengthIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→

Fibres

The typical fibre length of a cotton sample, traditionally given in 32nds of an inch (36 = 1 1/8 inch) and now measured by HVI as UHML. Longer staple spins finer, stronger, less hairy yarn.

UZShtapel uzunligiRUШтапельная длина

See also: Upper half mean length, Uniformity index, Short fibre contentIn the guide 02 · Natural and man-made fibres→

Finishing

Drying, heat setting or curing finishes on a stenter, a long heated frame that holds the fabric by its edges on pins or clips; also called tentering. It sets the finished width and can correct bow and skew.

UZStenterda kengaytirishRUШирение (стентер)

See also: Heat setting, Width control, SkewingIn the guide 06 · Finishing→

Fibres

Cotton that sticks to rollers and machine parts because of sugars, mostly honeydew from insects. Sticky cotton causes laps, breaks and stoppages; it is detected with stickiness testers and blended in with care.

UZYopishqoqlikRUЛипкость

See also: Honeydew

Knitted fabrics

The length of yarn in one knitted loop, usually in millimetres. Shorter loops give a tighter, heavier fabric; mills fix it for each quality so that weight and width repeat from lot to lot.

UZHalqadagi ip uzunligiRUДлина нити в петле

See also: Loop, GaugeIn the guide 04 · From yarn to fabric→Step 08 · Knitting and weaving→

Garments and sewing

The number of stitches in one inch of seam, also given per 3 cm or per cm. Too few weakens the seam; too many can pucker or cut the fabric. Knit garments are often sewn at about 10–14 SPI.

UZBaxya zichligiRUЧастота строчки

See also: Lockstitch, Overlock stitchIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→Step 11 · Sewing and printing→

Finishing

Washing garments, mainly denim, with pumice stones that abrade the surface, fading the colour unevenly and softening the fabric. It wears machines and leaves grit; enzymes often replace part of the stones.

UZStone wash (tosh bilan yuvish)RUСтоун-вош (стирка с камнями)

See also: Enzyme wash, Denim, Garment wash

Dyeing and printing

A sample print on the production fabric, made to check colours, registration and design before bulk printing. Once the buyer approves it, it is the standard for the print run.

UZStrike-off (sinov bosma)RUСтрайк-офф (пробный оттиск)

See also: Lab dip, RegistrationIn the guide 05 · Colour→In the guide 09 · How to specify and order→

Dyeing and printing

Printing disperse dyes onto paper, then transferring them with heat so they turn to vapour and enter the fibre. It works only on polyester and high-polyester fabric with a white or light ground; the print is soft and fast.

UZSublimatsion bosmaRUСублимационная печать

See also: Disperse dye, Heat transfer

Dyeing and printing

Low-cost dyes for cotton, applied in reduced form and then oxidised, giving deep blacks, navies and browns. Wash fastness is good and light fastness moderate; common for black denim and workwear.

UZOltingugurtli boʻyoqRUСернистый краситель

See also: Vat dye, DenimIn the guide 05 · Colour→

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A crisp, smooth plain-weave fabric of filament yarn, often with a fine crosswise rib and a sheen. It rustles and holds volume; used for evening wear, linings and umbrellas.

UZTaftaRUТафта

See also: Organza, Plain weave

Garments and sewing

A seam covered or reinforced with tape, such as a cotton or elastic tape on the shoulder seam of a T-shirt to stop it stretching, or a sealing tape on waterproof garments.

UZTasmali chokRUШов с тесьмой

See also: Neck rib, Side seam

Quality and testing

The force needed to continue a tear once started, in newtons, tested by the pendulum (Elmendorf) or trouser method (ISO 13937). Easy-care resin finishes can reduce it sharply.

UZYirtilishga chidamlilikRUПрочность на раздир

See also: Tensile strength

Garments and sewing

The technical file for a garment: sketches, measurements and tolerances, materials and trims, construction, prints, labels and packing. The factory costs, samples and produces from it, so gaps in it lead to errors.

UZTexnik paketRUТехпакет

See also: Spec sheet, Bill of materials, Size chartIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→Step 10 · Pattern making and cutting→

Quality and testing

Breaking force divided by linear density, in cN/tex, so that yarns of different counts can be compared. It is measured on single-end testers such as the USTER TENSORAPID; ring yarn has higher tenacity than open-end yarn.

UZSolishtirma uzilish kuchiRUУдельная разрывная нагрузка

See also: RKM, Elongation at break, Fibre strengthIn the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→In the guide 08 · Quality and testing→

Quality and testing

The maximum force a woven fabric withstands in warp or weft before breaking, in newtons (ISO 13934-1 strip or ISO 13934-2 grab method). Buyers set minimums for workwear and other fabrics under load.

UZUzilishga chidamlilikRUПрочность при растяжении (разрывная нагрузка)

See also: Tear strength, Bursting strength

Woven and nonwoven fabrics

A woven pile fabric in which an extra, slack pile warp forms uncut loops on one or both sides. The loops absorb water; towels are commonly about 400–600 g/m².

UZMaxra gazlama (sochiqbop)RUМахровая ткань

See also: Pile weave, Knitted terry, Huckaback

Yarn and spinning

The direct count system of ISO 1144: grams per 1,000 metres of yarn. A higher tex means a thicker yarn; Ne 30 is about 19.7 tex. ISO standards and many technical specifications use tex.

UZTeksRUТекс

See also: Dtex, Ne, Yarn countIn the guide 01 · What a textile is→In the guide 03 · From fibre to yarn→

Yarn and spinning

Filament yarn given crimp, loops or coils, usually by false-twist texturing, for bulk, stretch and a softer, more spun-like hand. DTY is the most common form.

UZTeksturalangan ipRUТекстурированная нить

See also: Draw-textured yarn, Partially oriented yarn

Quality and testing

Short sections where yarn mass exceeds the mean by a set amount, counted per kilometre at +50% (also +35%). They come from poor fibre control in drafting and show as spots in fabric.

UZYoʻgʻon joylarRUУтолщения

See also: Imperfections, Thin places

Quality and testing

Short sections where yarn mass falls below the mean by a set amount, counted per kilometre at −50% (or −40% for stricter control). Thin places are weak points that cause breaks in knitting and weaving.

UZIngichka joylarRUУтонения

See also: Imperfections, Thick places

Knitted fabrics

Loopback fabric from three yarns: a face yarn, a binding yarn and a thicker loop yarn that forms the back. Heavier and warmer, typically about 260–380 g/m², and often brushed; used for hoodies and sweatpants.

UZUch ipli futerRUФутер трёхнитка

See also: Two-thread fleece, Fleece, Raising

Garments and sewing

Garments taken from the first finished output of the bulk run and sent to the buyer to confirm that production matches the approved PP sample.

UZIshlab chiqarish boshidagi namunaRUОбразец из начала производства

See also: Pre-production sample, Shipment sampleIn the guide 07 · From fabric to garment→

Trade and certificates

The ability to follow a product and its materials back through every stage, from farm or recycler to the finished item. Buyers increasingly need it to prove origin and claims and to meet supply-chain due-diligence laws.

UZKuzatuvchanlikRUПрослеживаемость

See also: Chain of custody, Mass balance, Certificate of origin

Trade and certificates

A certificate issued by the certification body for one shipment of certified goods (GOTS, OCS, GRS, RCS), confirming the quantity and certified content as the goods pass from seller to buyer.

UZTranzaksiya sertifikati (TC)RUСертификат транзакции (TC)

See also: Scope certificate, Chain of custody

Fibres