Knitted vs woven fabric: what’s the difference?

Two garments can be made from the same cotton and still feel nothing alike. A T-shirt stretches and recovers; a shirt keeps its shape. The difference lies in how yarn becomes fabric: by knitting or by weaving.

Woven fabric

Weaving uses two sets of yarn. Warp yarns run along the fabric; weft yarns cross them at right angles, passing over and under. The result is stable and firm, with little stretch unless elastane is added, and cut edges fray — a cut knit edge, by contrast, curls and runs. Denim, poplin shirts, bed sheets and towels are woven.

Knitted fabric

Knitting builds fabric from loops. On a circular knitting machine, thousands of needles pull the yarn through the previous row of loops. Because loops can open and close, knitted fabric stretches, recovers and resists creasing. It feels soft and follows the body, which is why T-shirts, polos, underwear and sportswear are knitted.

Common knitted fabrics

• Single jersey — smooth face, loops on the back; the classic T-shirt fabric.
• Interlock — two layers knitted together; thicker and identical on both sides.
• Rib — raised vertical lines and strong stretch; for cuffs, collars and fitted tops.
• Piqué — textured surface; the polo-shirt fabric.
• Fleece (2- or 3-thread) — smooth face with extra yarn looped on the back, often brushed for warmth; used for sweatshirts.

Where terry fits

Terry is a woven fabric with an extra set of warp yarns that form loops on both faces of the cloth. The pile acts as a mass of fine capillaries that draw water in and hold it, which is why terry is so absorbent.

How to tell them apart

Stretch the fabric gently: a knit gives noticeably in width, a woven barely moves. Look closely: a knit’s face shows rows of small “V”s (arcs on the back); a woven shows a grid, or a diagonal line in denim and other twills.