GOTS, OEKO-TEX, ISO and SMETA: what the certificates mean

Buyers often ask for certificates before placing an order. That is reasonable: a certificate means an independent body has checked a specific claim. But the claims differ, and one certificate is no substitute for another.

GOTS — Global Organic Textile Standard

GOTS covers textiles made from certified organic fibres and follows them through every processing step. To carry the “organic” label a product must contain at least 95% certified organic fibre; products with 70–94% carry “made with [x]% organic materials”. The standard also sets environmental and social criteria for every company in the chain. A company receives a scope certificate for its processes, and each shipment can be backed by a transaction certificate.

OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100

This label says the product has been tested for harmful substances — for example certain dyes, heavy metals and formaldehyde. Requirements depend on the product class: class I, the strictest, is for articles for babies and toddlers up to three years; classes II–IV cover products in direct contact with skin, products without skin contact, and decoration materials. OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 sets limits for harmful substances but says nothing about how the fibre was grown: organic origin is certified separately — by GOTS, or by OEKO-TEX’s own ORGANIC COTTON certification.

ISO 9001, 14001 and 45001

These are management-system standards. ISO 9001 covers quality management, ISO 14001 environmental management and ISO 45001 occupational health and safety. They certify how a company is run, not a particular product.

SMETA

SMETA (Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit) is a social audit run by independent audit companies approved by Sedex. The two-pillar audit covers labour standards and health and safety; the four-pillar audit adds environment and business ethics. Results are uploaded to the Sedex platform, where the site decides which customers see them.